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Forum Index : Microcontroller and PC projects : Etchant

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Grogster

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Joined: 31/12/2012
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 9067
Posted: 04:44pm 28 Mar 2014
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What's wrong with Ammonium Persulphate again?
I'll have to read back through the thread a bit, to see why that was not an option.

Might simply have been cost, but as Mick says above.....

EDIT: Just cost and easy substitution for Ammonium Persulphate as per post #1. I get my Ammonium Persulphate from Jaycar - it seems to be reasonably priced. Ferric Chloride stains anything it touches, so that was one reason I dropped it in favour of Al.Per. But Ferric Chloride etches at room temperature, from memory, whereas Al. Per. has to be heated to about 70'C or it won't etch at all.Edited by Grogster 2014-03-30
Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops!
 
bigmik

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Joined: 20/06/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2870
Posted: 04:50pm 28 Mar 2014
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Lads,

I, when I used to make my own PCBs, used to use Ammonium Persulphate.

It works, was cheap and didn't make as bad a mess as Ferric Chloride used to. I used to store it in old soft drink bottles, when it was noticeably blue then you toss it out as it wasn't very effective anymore. Of course, as most teenagers did, I would NEVER discard it by pouring down the drain or on my mum's favourite plants. Would I?

It IS a slower etchant and for best results should be warm, I guess around 30-40 deg C.

Regards,
Mick

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Bryan1

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Joined: 22/02/2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 1211
Posted: 06:26pm 28 Mar 2014
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I use that AP ( bugger spelling it ) and all I do is let the water evaporate then put the crystals in a jar for later disposal. Now I got my cnc going all boards in the future will be milled now I got some beaut carbide engraving cutters off fleabay. Besides going the etch method using AP seemed to take ages and a 1500 watt heating element working off my shed bank did seem a BIG waste of power.
 
paceman
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Joined: 07/10/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 1328
Posted: 12:13am 29 Mar 2014
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  palcal said   I've done some more research into the cause of my explosion and I have found that the cheap Hydrochloric acid bought in bulk for pools and cleaning bricks etc. can contain a lot of impurities. Apparently this explains why my etchant mixture turned a bright orange when mixed when it should have stayed almost clear. Hydrochloric acid when left to evaporate should leave no residue and mine does.
So if you intend to use this mixture for etching make sure you buy a good quality acid.
Paul.

Interesting it went bright orange when you mixed it Paul - you didn't mention that before. Most likely that was due to iron contamination (ferric salts) in the acid - iron is a common impurity in industrial HCl (which builders often use because it's cheaper). Most pool HCL is pretty low in iron because it can stain the pool if the pH gets a bit too high. The pool shops often tout the 'low iron' in their HCl as a reason for the high price - but they do have a (small) point there.

I'd be very surprised if iron was the reason for the explosion though. Some other impurity elements would be more likely if they were in high enough concentrations.

Greg
 
paceman
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Joined: 07/10/2011
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Posts: 1328
Posted: 12:18am 29 Mar 2014
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  Grogster said   What's wrong with Ammonium Persulphate again?
I'll have to read back through the thread a bit, to see why that was not an option.

Nothing particularly Grogs - apart from the fact it's slower and needs warming. I think I remember reading somewhere once that it's more inclined to 'undercut' the copper from the resist, compared to ferric chloride but I doubt that's very relevant for us.

Greg
Edited by paceman 2014-03-30
 
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