Home
JAQForum Ver 20.06
Log In or Join  
Active Topics
Local Time 20:21 29 Mar 2024 Privacy Policy
Jump to

Notice. New forum software under development. It's going to miss a few functions and look a bit ugly for a while, but I'm working on it full time now as the old forum was too unstable. Couple days, all good. If you notice any issues, please contact me.

Forum Index : Electronics : Inverter PCB’s

     Page 24 of 29    
Author Message
yahoo2

Guru

Joined: 05/04/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 1166
Posted: 11:01pm 14 Jul 2018
Copy link to clipboard 
Print this post

  Madness said   I have a 80A DC breaker as the main power switch, it just gets turned on, no resistor to gradually charge the capacitors. Just turn on the breaker and turn on the switch to pin 6 away it goes, this has never failed. Not planning to try it but it probably would be fine if pin 6 was turned on when the breaker is turned on.

One tip for everybody is if you are using a GTI and it is back charging turn the GTI off before shutting down your inverter. If not the GTI somehow keeps running for a 500ms and you can hear the toroid reacting to it. This has resulted in releasing the smoke when the Inverter was powered on again.


Is it possible for the inverter to switch itself off while it is backfeeding? Is that something I should be thinking about or not?

I was thinking about what I could do with a transfer switch between the inverter and GTI

Im feeling around in the dark a bit, I dont know if what I am touching is a big hairy spider or one of the kids toys.
I'm confused, no wait... maybe I'm not...
 
Madness

Guru

Joined: 08/10/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2498
Posted: 11:20pm 14 Jul 2018
Copy link to clipboard 
Print this post

I am pulling my hair out ATM working on PWM to an SSR to feed excess AC power to my HWS. This works really well until later in the day when the Inverter is doing little more than providing a 50HZ signal to keep the GTIs happy. What happens then is the off grid inverter stops and restarts, this has happened over and over many times and not caused any issue to the inverter. Only way I know it has happened if I am not home is the oven clock resets. This restart is the same in behaviour to the restart some of us have had with long unshielded wires to the pin 6 on/off switch. I have shielded wire as short as possible to the switch and decoupling capacitors, but nothing I have done has been able to stop this restarting. It is very frustrating as the diversion of this excess power works so well apart from this one issue.

However once I did turn off the inverter while there was a significant (>2KW) amount of power being backfed, the inverter kept running although making very unusual sounds for around 1 second or less. When I attempted restarted the inverter it went bang.

It is no problem to turn off the AC breaker to the GTI at any time, so if your transfer switch is only switching from one OGI to another it may well be fine, but I have not done this in a few milliseconds like a transfer switch would. There is a very big hairy spider with equally large fangs lurking somewhere in the toy box!
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
renewableMark

Guru

Joined: 09/12/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 1678
Posted: 12:01am 15 Jul 2018
Copy link to clipboard 
Print this post

Bugger, maybe try and eliminate that switch wiring as a possible cause and fit your on/off directly on the board to test.
(like you did on p24, but you probably have already done that)Edited by renewableMark 2018-07-16
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
mason

Regular Member

Joined: 07/11/2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 86
Posted: 07:17pm 16 Jul 2018
Copy link to clipboard 
Print this post

Madness,
so for just regulating the batteries dc-dc, the negative from the solar panels through the regulator and the solar panel positive directly to the batteries right?

 
Madness

Guru

Joined: 08/10/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2498
Posted: 07:40pm 16 Jul 2018
Copy link to clipboard 
Print this post

Yes correct positive directly to the battery. and PV negative to the connectors on top of the PCB. The heatsink of your regulator connects to battery negative. MOSFETs for DC - DC must not have any insulation or thermal paste just straight on to the bare Aluminium of the heatsink. All other MOSFETs and transistors must have insulated pads.
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
renewableMark

Guru

Joined: 09/12/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 1678
Posted: 11:27pm 22 Jul 2018
Copy link to clipboard 
Print this post

Hey Mad, if you just want to use the regulator for panels and not use the grid tie function which parts can be left out?
All the ones to the right of the line?


Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
Madness

Guru

Joined: 08/10/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2498
Posted: 11:54pm 22 Jul 2018
Copy link to clipboard 
Print this post

On page 38 there is a list of which parts are needed for what in a zip file.

You need all the parts shown in the second image below.







There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
renewableMark

Guru

Joined: 09/12/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 1678
Posted: 02:46am 23 Jul 2018
Copy link to clipboard 
Print this post

Thanks mate.
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
renewableMark

Guru

Joined: 09/12/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 1678
Posted: 07:55am 26 Jul 2018
Copy link to clipboard 
Print this post

Prob should make a different thread for the charge regulator board,... but,
I am planning to use one for just panels and another for GTI controller.
So looking at the board there are two inputs/outputs for GTI's PV1 and PV2.
Each one has two 600v 20A fets so you can run up to 40A on each pvi set correct?
I'm not too sure what all the plugs are for, but to just get it operating all that needs to be connected is the hall sensor and panel in/out correct?
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
Madness

Guru

Joined: 08/10/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2498
Posted: 08:26am 26 Jul 2018
Copy link to clipboard 
Print this post

You would be better off running both through the one regulator.

Yes there is 2 20A MOSFETs for each channel to your GTI, however your standard 5KW Inverter is not going be much above 10A on each channel. There is plenty of headroom there so the FETs don't get overloaded.

There is 2 connections for switching to absorb or float they are the 2 3 pins on the DC-DC side. the 4 2pin plugs are for vent fan, AC, dump load and hot water system. You can use as many as few of those as you need. The only essential input is the 48VDC and if you are using a GTI you need AC to the isolated power supply.Edited by Madness 2018-07-27
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
renewableMark

Guru

Joined: 09/12/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 1678
Posted: 09:19am 26 Jul 2018
Copy link to clipboard 
Print this post

OK I'll put them both through the one unit.
How do the absorb/float connections connect?

I picked up two cheap NIB Latronics pve 1200 GTI's that are discontinued.
So I don't need the isolated supply for these torroid based units, correct?

40A on each PV input will be plenty for each 1200W GTI.
My house has a standby use of around 600w, so with two of those running that should easily take care of the normal running with plenty to spare for backfeeding.
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
Madness

Guru

Joined: 08/10/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2498
Posted: 11:11am 26 Jul 2018
Copy link to clipboard 
Print this post

I have no idea if those Latronics GTIs will work without isolation. The Regulator PCB is designed to operate isolated and would need quite a bit of modification to run unisolated. By making it isolated it will work with any GTI, the isolated power supplies only cost about $5 anyway.

The current for the PV to the GTI will depend on the voltage being used, normally it will be around 300V so 1200W is only 4 amps.

The connections for the float and absorb are pins 1 and 2 connected by a push button switch will trigger that function. Pin 3 is designed for an external input from an external charge controller, ie your Fangpussen controller has a 12V auxiliary output that can be set to go high when it enters float mode. Connecting that auxilary to the regulator float pin 3 will switch it to float, this is so you don't have one that has gone to float and the other still trying to keep the battery at absorb voltage.




There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
Madness

Guru

Joined: 08/10/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2498
Posted: 01:10am 27 Jul 2018
Copy link to clipboard 
Print this post

VERY IMPORTANT


Anybody with the 24 FET Power board please note R46 between the TIP35C and HY4008 MOSFETS is incorrect on the silkscreen please change from 10R to 5K.
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
Ralph2k6

Senior Member

Joined: 24/09/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 129
Posted: 02:24am 02 Aug 2018
Copy link to clipboard 
Print this post

Just wanted to say a quick thanks for sending out the board kit.
Got it in today . Looks like a got a small team of Sunshine Coast ants in one of the parts bags too.
Maybe will attach image later, too hard on little smartphone.
Ralph
 
Madness

Guru

Joined: 08/10/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2498
Posted: 02:26am 02 Aug 2018
Copy link to clipboard 
Print this post

Those bloody ants get in everything, only thing I know that stops them is to spray things with wd40 and they won't touch it.
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
renewableMark

Guru

Joined: 09/12/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 1678
Posted: 06:57am 02 Aug 2018
Copy link to clipboard 
Print this post

Fipronil, spray the house with that and you won't see them for 12 months.
Or any other insect.
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
renewableMark

Guru

Joined: 09/12/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 1678
Posted: 09:36am 03 Aug 2018
Copy link to clipboard 
Print this post

Having a bit of trouble loading software to the arduino for inverter controller.(haha that's unusual)
Cut and paste the code from p26 to the arduino and it just comes up with errors.

I deleted all the libraries and arduino software and started again from scratch.
Has this web site perhaps changed the formatting? I have seen things get altered in the past when posting on forums.

I have the arduino working properly, did the blink program and changed the blink time, re-uploaded it and it works, so the connection to the unit is fine.
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
Madness

Guru

Joined: 08/10/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2498
Posted: 11:08am 03 Aug 2018
Copy link to clipboard 
Print this post

What are the errors?
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
renewableMark

Guru

Joined: 09/12/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 1678
Posted: 11:19am 03 Aug 2018
Copy link to clipboard 
Print this post

If you click on file/preferences/check boxes for show verbose it comes up with detailed f ups.

Below is the orange text from my failed upload.

In file included from C:\Users\admin\Documents\Arduino\libraries\OneWire-master/OneWire.h:9:0,

from C:\Users\admin\Documents\Arduino\sketch_aug03a\sketch_aug03a.ino:14:

c:\program files (x86)\arduino\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\util\crc16.h: In function 'void setup()':

c:\program files (x86)\arduino\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\util\crc16.h:114:1: error: a function-definition is not allowed here before '{' token

{

^

c:\program files (x86)\arduino\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\util\crc16.h:180:1: error: a function-definition is not allowed here before '{' token

{

^

c:\program files (x86)\arduino\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\util\crc16.h:254:1: error: a function-definition is not allowed here before '{' token

{

^

c:\program files (x86)\arduino\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\util\crc16.h:321:1: error: a function-definition is not allowed here before '{' token

{

^

c:\program files (x86)\arduino\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\util\crc16.h:387:1: error: a function-definition is not allowed here before '{' token

{

^

In file included from C:\Users\admin\Documents\Arduino\libraries\New-LiquidCrystal-master/LiquidCrystal_I2C.h:35:0,

from C:\Users\admin\Documents\Arduino\sketch_aug03a\sketch_aug03a.ino:19:

C:\Users\admin\Documents\Arduino\libraries\New-LiquidCrystal-master/LCD.h:90:1: error: a function-definition is not allowed here before '{' token

{

^

In file included from C:\Users\admin\Documents\Arduino\sketch_aug03a\sketch_aug03a.ino:20:0:

c:\program files (x86)\arduino\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\avr\wdt.h:453:1: error: a function-definition is not allowed here before '{' token

{

^

sketch_aug03a:291: error: expected '}' at end of input

}

^

Multiple libraries were found for "LiquidCrystal.h"
Used: C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\LiquidCrystal
Not used: C:\Users\admin\Documents\Arduino\libraries\New-LiquidCrystal-master
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
renewableMark

Guru

Joined: 09/12/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 1678
Posted: 11:23am 03 Aug 2018
Copy link to clipboard 
Print this post




Looks like this.

Gotta stop kicking black cats.Edited by renewableMark 2018-08-04
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
     Page 24 of 29    
Print this page
© JAQ Software 2024