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Forum Index : EV's : EV 3

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Trev

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Joined: 15/07/2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 452
Posted: 05:16am 06 Aug 2007
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Page 3 of the Hilux EV

For those just starting page 1 is EV Conversion
Page 2 is EV 2

Somewhat of a long story.
Communication back and forth with Qld Transport and our local vehicle modification engineer. Made application to Qld Transport. Eventually informed of the rules and regulations that must be complied with. These can be viewed at DOTARS. It is NCOP 14. Go into Roads, Roads & Vehicle Safety, Vehicle Standards Bulletins, VSB 14, and NCOP14.

At least we don't have to spend months looking for this information again.

This bulletin outlines some important? things that must be in a vehicle. Like heating for demisting. I live in tropical Qld, who would have thought it necessary? There are several other things as requirements and recommended additions. So we have been working to comply.

Edited by Trev 2007-10-20
Trev @ http://www.thebackshed.com/basiclynatural/
 
Trev

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Joined: 15/07/2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 452
Posted: 05:43am 06 Aug 2007
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The first issue to tackle is the heating for demisting.

Just a little searching and it was suggested by several that a bar heater element could be cut down to work off a lower voltage. My childhood days says that glowing red hot thing is dangerous to put inside a plastic box under the dash. All I could see was 'FIRE'.

Others use ceramic heaters and there are commercial heaters that look identical to the original water heater element. Hair dryers have been used, modified for the appropriate voltage and plumbed into the air ducting.

My idea was to have something simple enough to avoid the lengthy job of removing the dash in future vehicles. The 12v plastic hot jugs posed a good idea. In the jug the water could reach 80 degrees C and with the air flow passed the element under the dash, this should be a nice warming effect.

So I stripped the dash (yet again) to check just exactly how all things work.

Initial experiments had only one 12v element. In the final arrangement as seen in the vehicle, 2 of these 12v elements were fitted, to bring the temperature up quicker. The pump is needed because the heat tranfer is not quick enough through just water. It works well, but while I own the vehicle, it probably will never get switched on.







Trev @ http://www.thebackshed.com/basiclynatural/
 
Trev

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Joined: 15/07/2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 452
Posted: 06:22am 06 Aug 2007
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Next is the air conditioning and power steering. The original idea was to have a seperate motor direct drive on each pump. (As seen by previous posts with the testing of the starter motor).

This Hilux steers quite easy without it, but the rule says it must stay and some vehicles do require it, so we make it work, and learn the drama's. I believe it is possible to swap steering boxes with the same type of vehicle that does not have power steering.

The motor is a 12v series wound Advanced DC. With the change of mind in application, a short shaft needed to be fitted for a set of pulley's. This changes the direction of spin, compared to direct drive, but thanks to ADC in the States they sent me the wrong one. It spins the right way. The brackets will be painted in due time.

The standard size pulleys were used and the current draw was quite high. So a larger pulley was adapted to the power steering. It made no difference to the current draw so we assumed that was just the power consumption to run the motor, but it did allow the motor to spin faster. So we set out to cast and machine 2 new pulley's. With the 2 larger pulley's the amp draw is now 150 amps, both pumps running. The air-conditioning still cycles on and off, as normal.







Trev @ http://www.thebackshed.com/basiclynatural/
 
Trev

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Joined: 15/07/2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 452
Posted: 10:04am 06 Aug 2007
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The 200v guage burnt out with 156v when switched on, so was replaced under warranty. To avoid the strong inrush current Glenn (Gizmo) suggested a 5 watt 100 ohm resister and a 0.47uF x 600v greencap.

Thanks Glenn it works and has done several times now.



Trev @ http://www.thebackshed.com/basiclynatural/
 
Trev

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Joined: 15/07/2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 452
Posted: 10:17am 06 Aug 2007
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Vaccum is now fully automatic. A fully adjustable, lower and upper limit vaccum switch has been added along with a tank to hold a permanent vaccum. Feels just like the original braking, instant vaccum.

It used to be connected to the brake pedal and switched on by pressing the brake pedal. The problem is that it would stay on all the time the foot was on the pedal, even stopped, like traffic lights. This also had a second or so delay in vaccum.



Trev @ http://www.thebackshed.com/basiclynatural/
 
Trev

Guru

Joined: 15/07/2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 452
Posted: 10:29am 06 Aug 2007
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Battery box tie down was considered a little weak. The rules say that the batteries must not break free with up to 20 x gravity (weight of batteries)in a head on collision.

High tensile grade 8.8 x 12 mm bolts have been used to tie down the main battery box (at the front of the tray). The storage box (rear of the tray) has 2 batteries and the 144v charger, so high tensile grade 8.8 x 10 mm bolts were used. Also much bigger washers were used to prevent the box from tearing off the bolts.



Trev @ http://www.thebackshed.com/basiclynatural/
 
Trev

Guru

Joined: 15/07/2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 452
Posted: 10:44am 06 Aug 2007
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It was suggested that the vehicle be made not drivable while on charge. So while the tray was off, external / internal 240v AC power was added. Also a relay added, that disconnects the 12v supply to the main contactor, thus making it unable to be driven when on charge. An extension cord was used to tranfer power to the front of the vehicle (through flex conduit) for the 12v charger.



Trev @ http://www.thebackshed.com/basiclynatural/
 
Trev

Guru

Joined: 15/07/2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 452
Posted: 10:53am 06 Aug 2007
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A cover was made for the high power electrical corner under the bonnet and 'Danger High Voltage' sticker place on top. The rear storage box also has high voltage also, not easily accessable, but still is there. A sticker has been placed on the charger for a warning.



Trev @ http://www.thebackshed.com/basiclynatural/
 
Trev

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Joined: 15/07/2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 452
Posted: 10:58am 06 Aug 2007
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Ok, all that done, we now go back to getting it certified for use on the road.

Trev @ http://www.thebackshed.com/basiclynatural/
 
Gizmo

Admin Group

Joined: 05/06/2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 4723
Posted: 08:22am 09 Aug 2007
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As always, excellent work Trev.
"Treat the earth well, it was not given to you by your parents, it was lent to you by your children"

JAQ Software
 
Robb
Senior Member

Joined: 01/08/2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 221
Posted: 08:16am 09 Sep 2007
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Have you any specs on the before and after curbmass and power to weight ratio etc.
One massive job that
 
Trev

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Joined: 15/07/2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 452
Posted: 11:07am 17 Sep 2007
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Hi Rob,
Kerb weight before was measured at 1363 kg. Kerb weight after was measured at 1940 kg.

Original motor is something like 130 hp and the electric motor is rated at 100 hp at 144v.

There is also a difference is how this power is formed. The petrol engine peaks in hp at a particular rev range which is usually quite a narrow band. Electric motors have all torque at all rev range, 0 to 10,000 RPM. So while it appears to be under powered with extra weight, it still performs like a normal vehicle. If you would like a second opinion, ask Glenn. He has been for a test ride.

Trev @ http://www.thebackshed.com/basiclynatural/
 
Trev

Guru

Joined: 15/07/2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 452
Posted: 09:55am 10 Nov 2007
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I worked with the engineer where possible and the report was written. A very helpful fellow.

Lost some time as he thought I was going to send the report and I thought he was going to send the report to Qld Transport.

Qld Transport people have also been very helpful too. The Hilux modification has been passed under the code LV1 Electric Vehicle. I am the first in Qld to get it! It is now registered as an electric vehicle !

That means it is now legal to drive it on the road.

A big thankyou to all involved.


Trev @ http://www.thebackshed.com/basiclynatural/
 
AMUN-RA

Senior Member

Joined: 10/03/2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 144
Posted: 12:50pm 10 Nov 2007
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One small step for trev one giant leap for our kind
mankind will catch up one day well done trev
MICK
Every day the sun shines
& gravity sucks= free energy.
 
petanque don
Senior Member

Joined: 02/08/2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 212
Posted: 01:32am 19 Nov 2007
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Great effort it seems a great idea but too hard for many.
 
a4x4kiwi
Newbie

Joined: 07/02/2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 1
Posted: 08:52am 07 Feb 2008
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Hi Trev,

Fantastic blog!
I am in the process of collecting the parts for an AC conversion and realy like your water heater.

Are these the kettles you use -Link to Ebay-?

Also, What did you house the hot elements in. It looks to be diferent to normal PVC plumming.

My blog is Here

I am currently looking for an extra cab hilux to convert.

Thanks and regards,
Mal.
 
Trev

Guru

Joined: 15/07/2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 452
Posted: 11:00am 09 Feb 2008
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A4x4kiwi,
Yes, they are the kettles. I only paid $15 each for mine though. I put 2 elements in because 1 did not heat up fast enough. Best also to keep the volume of water down.

Good to hear another EV is in progress.
Trev @ http://www.thebackshed.com/basiclynatural/
 


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