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renewableMark
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Posted: 12 July 2018 at 7:54pm | IP Logged Quote renewableMark

Ahhh, if only they had a warehouse here in Aus, sometimes I look for alternatives simply because of time, Surely someone in Aus sells sheets of it but I was unable to find it and wanted to get cracking. I'll get a roll for No2.
Cheers for the link mate.

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Madness
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Posted: 12 July 2018 at 9:00pm | IP Logged Quote Madness

Jaycar sells some stuff that is about the same consistency as chewing gum. I tried it a while ago and found as useless as udders on a bull.

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Posted: 12 July 2018 at 9:12pm | IP Logged Quote Madness

renewableMark wrote:

Mad, on another matter, if you have two charge controllers feeding a battery can/should you hook up to the same hall sensor?
I'm thinking you should as not to exceed max charge input to a battery, however will the two controllers be happy with that scenario?


If you are using 2 together as long the other charge controller can't exceed you maximum battery charge current it will be fine. Your battery would be fine with 70A charge, keep in mind your house will be using power so if you have an 80A charge controller working at full power it will not be putting all of that into the battery.

The DIY regulator will be able to drop to zero output if needed. If you are controlling loads such as HWS or AC you will not have anything to worry about. We try to do as many things like washing clothes and baking while the sun is shining where possible. Saves the battery wear and tear and also you only get back 90% of what goes into the battery.

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Posted: 13 July 2018 at 9:05am | IP Logged Quote renewableMark

Ahh I got ya. So the input to the battery should all go through that cable with the hall sensor and it will not allow the gti controller/s to exceed the max charge amps, even if my separate mppt controller is feeding. The gti controller/s reads the total going into battery via the one hall sensor and just scales back when appropriate.
Very clever.

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Posted: 15 July 2018 at 9:01am | IP Logged Quote yahoo2

Madness wrote:
I have a 80A DC breaker as the main power switch, it just gets turned on, no resistor to gradually charge the capacitors. Just turn on the breaker and turn on the switch to pin 6 away it goes, this has never failed. Not planning to try it but it probably would be fine if pin 6 was turned on when the breaker is turned on.

One tip for everybody is if you are using a GTI and it is back charging turn the GTI off before shutting down your inverter. If not the GTI somehow keeps running for a 500ms and you can hear the toroid reacting to it. This has resulted in releasing the smoke when the Inverter was powered on again.


Is it possible for the inverter to switch itself off while it is backfeeding? Is that something I should be thinking about or not?

I was thinking about what I could do with a transfer switch between the inverter and GTI

Im feeling around in the dark a bit, I dont know if what I am touching is a big hairy spider or one of the kids toys.

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Madness
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Posted: 15 July 2018 at 9:20am | IP Logged Quote Madness

I am pulling my hair out ATM working on PWM to an SSR to feed excess AC power to my HWS. This works really well until later in the day when the Inverter is doing little more than providing a 50HZ signal to keep the GTIs happy. What happens then is the off grid inverter stops and restarts, this has happened over and over many times and not caused any issue to the inverter. Only way I know it has happened if I am not home is the oven clock resets. This restart is the same in behaviour to the restart some of us have had with long unshielded wires to the pin 6 on/off switch. I have shielded wire as short as possible to the switch and decoupling capacitors, but nothing I have done has been able to stop this restarting. It is very frustrating as the diversion of this excess power works so well apart from this one issue.

However once I did turn off the inverter while there was a significant (>2KW) amount of power being backfed, the inverter kept running although making very unusual sounds for around 1 second or less. When I attempted restarted the inverter it went bang.

It is no problem to turn off the AC breaker to the GTI at any time, so if your transfer switch is only switching from one OGI to another it may well be fine, but I have not done this in a few milliseconds like a transfer switch would. There is a very big hairy spider with equally large fangs lurking somewhere in the toy box!

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Posted: 15 July 2018 at 10:01am | IP Logged Quote renewableMark

Bugger, maybe try and eliminate that switch wiring as a possible cause and fit your on/off directly on the board to test.
(like you did on p24, but you probably have already done that)

Edited by renewableMark on 15 July 2018 at 10:08am


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Posted: 17 July 2018 at 5:17am | IP Logged Quote mason

Madness,
so for just regulating the batteries dc-dc, the negative from the solar panels through the regulator and the solar panel positive directly to the batteries right?

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Posted: 17 July 2018 at 5:40am | IP Logged Quote Madness

Yes correct positive directly to the battery. and PV negative to the connectors on top of the PCB. The heatsink of your regulator connects to battery negative. MOSFETs for DC - DC must not have any insulation or thermal paste just straight on to the bare Aluminium of the heatsink. All other MOSFETs and transistors must have insulated pads.

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Posted: 23 July 2018 at 9:27am | IP Logged Quote renewableMark

Hey Mad, if you just want to use the regulator for panels and not use the grid tie function which parts can be left out?
All the ones to the right of the line?



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Posted: 23 July 2018 at 9:54am | IP Logged Quote Madness

On page 38 there is a list of which parts are needed for what in a zip file.

You need all the parts shown in the second image below.








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Posted: 23 July 2018 at 12:46pm | IP Logged Quote renewableMark

Thanks mate.

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