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bigfix
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Posted: 11 April 2018 at 9:54pm | IP Logged Quote bigfix

As the touch function is based on analogue voltages, there could be some environmental/power issue adding random noise to the X,Y coordinates

As Matherp mentioned, use a nonconductive stylus to avoid stray noise from your fingertip

Eventually isolate the MMite from power & other connections and run it by battery
Also go to some other place away from transmitters etc...


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miyek.ard
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Posted: 12 April 2018 at 11:21am | IP Logged Quote miyek.ard

matherp wrote:
The touch function is common to all types of MM. It is highly unlikely that there is any sort of firmware issue. The key is getting a clean calibration. Use a plastic stylus (not a finger). Dwell on the points for about a second and then release cleanly before moving onto the next.

Once calibration is successful try using a very simple program to test

do
Print touch(x), touch(y)
pause 300
loop



I try as per you said, the result is "-1 -1". Is it a sensible results? (I guess not)
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TassyJim
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Posted: 12 April 2018 at 12:06pm | IP Logged Quote TassyJim

miyek.ard wrote:

Once calibration is successful try using a very simple program to test

do
Print touch(x), touch(y)
pause 300
loop


I try as per you said, the result is "-1 -1". Is it a sensible results? (I guess not)

-1 indicates that the screen is NOT touched.
So you should get -1 continually until you touch.

Jim

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miyek.ard
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Posted: 12 April 2018 at 12:27pm | IP Logged Quote miyek.ard

TassyJim wrote:
-1 indicates that the screen is NOT touched.
So you should get -1 continually until you touch.
Jim

I still get -1 eventho I touch the screen hundred times all over the screen
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palcal
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Posted: 12 April 2018 at 2:57pm | IP Logged Quote palcal

Hi Aimi,
Are you sure your display has the TOUCH function. It is possible to buy displays without this function. They still have the touch pins on the back but U1 is missing from the board.
Paul.

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Grogster
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Posted: 12 April 2018 at 3:58pm | IP Logged Quote Grogster

Hmmmmmm. This is interesting. What power source are you using? USB power or an external plug-pack/wall-wart thing? If external, it needs to be regulated.

Remove the protective plastic film from the LCD. The touch always just works, usually. All LCD's from tiny SPI ones up to 8" parallel ones all tend to use the same XPT2046 touch controller, and there must be literally thousands of these in use on Micromite chips now, and they 'Just work'.

Personally, I am suspicious of perhaps bad soldering on the backpack PCB - especially as you say you have tried two different LCD's, and both are bad on the touch. That suggests you should have a good look around all the soldering from the MM chip, the backpack PCB, and the connections to the actual LCD itself.

Please keep us posted on any further developments!



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palcal
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Posted: 12 April 2018 at 6:32pm | IP Logged Quote palcal

I thought of that Grogs but he got the backpack ready made from WW.
I am sure WW checks very thoroughly before shipping.
Paul.

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miyek.ard
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Posted: 12 April 2018 at 7:39pm | IP Logged Quote miyek.ard

I have U1 on my TFT board.

I did continuity test using multimeter and all connection are just fine. So I guess there is no soldering issues?

Eventho I remove the plastic film from the screen, the touch still cannot be traced.
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WhiteWizzard
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Posted: 13 April 2018 at 6:27am | IP Logged Quote WhiteWizzard

palcal wrote:
. . . but he got the backpack ready made from WW.
I am sure WW checks very thoroughly before shipping.


Bit confused as I can confirm that it was not purchased ready made from me, and therefore (from my perspective) the soldering on the MM PCB 'may' be the cause of the issue.

In our many email exchanges about 3-4weeks ago, you stated that initially the Prompt was not displayed until you re-soldered the PIC. I suspect there may be an issue still with the soldering on some of the pins?

Specifically focus on checking Pins: 1-5, and 47.

Out of interest, did you:
1> Purchase a pre-soldered module? or
2> Purchase a kit? or
3> Purchase just a PCB, and then obtain the components yourself?

If possible, PLEASE can you post two hi-res photos of the MM module! The photo's that you sent me were way too low a resolution to see any detail.

Hopefully between us all we can get to the cause of your issue . . . .

WW

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Posted: 13 April 2018 at 6:37am | IP Logged Quote WhiteWizzard

Having re-read all the emails twice, can I advise that you run a 'wet iron' over the PIC pins (i.e. a soldering iron with a small amount of solder on the tip). Ideally run liquid flux over the pins first to avoid 'bridging' (use solder wick + flux to remove and 'shorts').

Then, if still failing after re-soldering the PIC pins, I would re-load the MMBASIC firmware (you were about to get a PicKit3 when we last spoke - I assume this has arrived by now?).

IF you still have the same issue after re-soldering the PIC, and re-loading MMBASIC then my guess is on a faulty TFT. I hear that you have tried two TFTs, but were these both from the same supplier?

Anyway, two things for you to try here. And please try post two photo's if possible of the top and the bottom of the assembled MM module (with TFT removed)

WW

Edited by WhiteWizzard on 13 April 2018 at 6:38am


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palcal
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Posted: 13 April 2018 at 6:51am | IP Logged Quote palcal

@ WW
Sorry about that but in one of his ealier posts in this thread he states he got his Backpack from HERE
and I thought that was you.
Paul.

Edited by palcal on 13 April 2018 at 6:52am


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miyek.ard
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Posted: 13 April 2018 at 5:40pm | IP Logged Quote miyek.ard

First of all, Im so sorry because I had miscommunication with my partner. Actually she purchased the kit here but we already ordered another few kits at WW's website. I can't upload the images here so you guys can view it HERE.

the Pickit3 is already here but then it is not working. I guess because it is not the genuine one, so I need to purchase the genuine one from the Microchip. I need some times to resolder the PIC. Once I done, I'll update here!
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