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kg4pid
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Posted: 20 April 2018 at 3:13am | IP Logged Quote kg4pid

I just found this thread and since I've had very limited success with my HC-12 I decided to look at the few I have been using. They do have the crystal marked T300 but the silkscreen is so heavy on the back side that I can not see any traces at all.

I find it ironic that Chineese companies are faking devices made by other Chineese companies. I thought they only did that to well known companies in other contries. I recently read that SanDisk memory cards a being faked at a very high rate. Prolific USB to serial chips are another product that is frequently copied.

Where do we go to get the real thing these days?


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Grogster
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Posted: 20 April 2018 at 10:05am | IP Logged Quote Grogster

Sounds like you have the genuine article.

One of the things that is visually different between the real and clones, is that the genuine ones have a thick white silkscreen on the bottom. You can't see the bottom tracks because of this. The fake ones have a more see-through milky looking silkscreen on the bottom.

The clones seem to actually work OK from what I have found, but cos they are off frequency, you can't use clones and genuine ones on the same link or network, as they won't talk to each other on the same channel because of that.

All genuine ones - no problems.
All fake ones - no problems.
Mix them up - BIG problems.

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Azure
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Posted: 20 April 2018 at 10:22am | IP Logged Quote Azure

@grogster
I understand your reluctance to use the fakes on paid jobs because of reported reliability, locking up, etc.

Trying to nail down the cause of the different Tx frequency are you able to measure the frequency of the XTALs running on the 2 boards.

Also doing the chip swaps you talked about earlier would be handy, but understand you may not care about doing that now. Just would be nice to see if the difference is from one of those components.
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Posted: 20 April 2018 at 10:29am | IP Logged Quote Grogster

Yeah....

What has done my head in the most, is that I did not realize there were fake HC-12's out there. Now I know.......

Had I known that or even suspected it before, I would have been much more careful about where I bought them from.

I suppose when you really think about it some, the HC-12 is a VERY popular module, and anything that gets popular is cloned, so I guess I should have thought this was possible before now. Excrement.

Oh well - onwards and upwards.

Good idea on the XTAL thing. I will see if I can connect each module to my frequency counter. If that works, I will post results and photos.

No, not really interested in chip-swapping now. That idea was back when I thought I was still dealing with genuine modules, but once it became possible they were fakes, it simply is not worth the time and effort to do the chip-swap now. MHOO.

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Posted: 20 April 2018 at 10:46am | IP Logged Quote palcal

Well I learnt something, PogoPins never heard of them before but I will have some soon. No idea what I'll do with them though.
Paul.

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Chopperp
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Posted: 20 April 2018 at 12:34pm | IP Logged Quote Chopperp

palcal wrote:
Well I learnt something, PogoPins never heard of them....
Paul.

Likewise Paul. Had to do look them up as well.

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Posted: 20 April 2018 at 12:46pm | IP Logged Quote Grogster

Pogo pins are awesome things for programming jigs.

I have located six of the remaining eight of the HC-12's from November's purchase of fifteen units. I only have two left to find now.

All units were checked using the scanner and frequency counter. Any that register as being off-frequency are being marked as such, and put to one side.

It looks like I might be doing a bit of re-building. Curses!

Oh well. Faeces occurs.......

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Posted: 20 April 2018 at 3:22pm | IP Logged Quote palcal

I can't figure how you would mount them on the PCB, a pic. of the finished board would help. What were they originally used for.
Paul.

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Posted: 20 April 2018 at 3:57pm | IP Logged Quote Grogster

Assuming you mean the Pogo pins, I use TWO of the same board, stacked with short spacers between them, and a small offcut of PCB taped to the bottom of the bottom PCB covering the pogo-pin holes. This prevents the pins dropping right through both boards, and also ensures that all pins are at the same height.

Then you push the pogo pin through BOTH boards from the top(which are now stacked), and solder the pogo pin to the top of the via on the top board. Both stacked boards keep the alignment almost perfect at 90' to the horizontal of the PCB.

That done, remove the top PCB, and solder the bottom side of the vias on the top board you just removed. I find that it is best to then replace the top board in the bottom one, as that protects the pogo pins from damage.

Like this:







The PCB does benefit from having close-fitting vias for the pogo pins, as that also helps keep them square to the PCB. I usually make the hole in the via 0.1mm wider then the pogo-pin, that way, they are a snug fit.

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Posted: 20 April 2018 at 4:03pm | IP Logged Quote palcal

What a great idea.
Paul.

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Posted: 20 April 2018 at 4:24pm | IP Logged Quote WhiteWizzard

By the way - DO NOT buy cheap Pogo Pins as they will fail quicker than they should. Then you're left with a different problem to resolve . . . .

Look at the cost of pins in somewhere like RS - then compare them to the likes of eBay.

In 2014 I used a 7 way pogo-pin 'package' in a design - they cost (back then) 3.18 each - but they still work 100% reliably today.

Note to Grogs: My E28 tester has had three pins swapped out already in its 'brief' life

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Posted: 20 April 2018 at 4:51pm | IP Logged Quote Grogster

Really?!

That's interesting. A metal pin is a metal pin. I wonder what went wrong with them?
How many E28's have you tested in your one before you had to replace pins?

I have done heaps, and that arrangement as posted above is still working fine.
Probably tested about 75-100 modules in that rig so far, and still working......

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