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kitestrings
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Posted: 28 July 2017 at 12:58pm | IP Logged Quote kitestrings

A couple minor tweaks to this thing:

Since it looks to be a more permanent feature now, I ran some non-metallic PVC liquid-tie and buried a portion of the run where we have a logging access road.



I documented a make-shift schematic for when ICRS in the near future.



Lastly, I'm adding a constant voltage pump/motor driver on the line to the tower. This thing runs off a small 12V bank in the garage. We have our (trusty) old Trace inverter there which runs the OH door openers and a few light loads. When the batteries dip what's left on the end of the run to tower is another ~1/2V lower. The pump driver will provide a steady ~14V output with a varying input (11-15V).





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kitestrings
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Posted: 28 July 2017 at 3:50pm | IP Logged Quote kitestrings

Notice the "Rutland" turbine on the cupola. I call this our functionalweather vane. It charges, a bit, into the 12V bank in the garage.
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flc1
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Posted: 29 July 2017 at 8:08am | IP Logged Quote flc1

looks good ks,maybe an idea to put a couple of concrete posts or large wooden posts either side of your tower so some clown doesn't take out your tower with their car/truck.

Edited by flc1 on 29 July 2017 at 12:53pm
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kitestrings
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Posted: 01 August 2017 at 7:23pm | IP Logged Quote kitestrings

Quote:
...some clown...


That'd be me in this case. The tower is just off my driveway, and I'm the 'plow guy'. Seriously, this is something I've been thinking about. It'd be pretty easy to back into it in the winter especially...or the LPG guy... I'm thinking to just drag a couple of big rocks over on each side of it. It's all ledge there.
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flc1
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Posted: 02 August 2017 at 12:46am | IP Logged Quote flc1

Yep. That would do it.big tower like that would come down hard.
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kitestrings
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Posted: 08 August 2017 at 4:17pm | IP Logged Quote kitestrings

I've added this constant voltage converter. It is a pretty slick unit. Takes a varying input voltage 11-15V, (5A max.) and allows you to set the output voltage. Here I have the thing powered off my truck battery, and I'm setting the output voltage to about 15V.



Current losses have been causing me a bit of grief, so I plan to move the DC source closer to the thing. I also found a aux. battery isolator, so I should be able to isolate power to this thing on a cell that is unaffected by [other] load. Should of probably done this in the first place.

~ks


Edited by kitestrings on 08 August 2017 at 4:19pm
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kitestrings
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Posted: 25 September 2017 at 12:44pm | IP Logged Quote kitestrings

I was reminded that I probably should update this post. Our final schematic has changed a bit. We added another battery closer to the actuator (but still inside the shop), and I also put a diode/isolator in to block this battery from any local loads. The actuator uses a built-in potentiometer, and the controller is a bit sensitive to current losses. Seems to be working well now.



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flc1
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Posted: 26 September 2017 at 12:21am | IP Logged Quote flc1

Gday Ks

Good looking setup you have there,and it works well which is the main objective.
Hopefully when I get back the auto furling switch from Dave I will be worry free during a storm aswell.
Our switch was not working exactly as we would like,most of the time it worked fine, but Dave rekons hes sorted it, the problem was a tiny piece of solder in the wrong spot.

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kitestrings
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Posted: 28 November 2017 at 5:59am | IP Logged Quote kitestrings

One more update -

I did a bit of rewiring over the holiday break. Basically I changed the circuit so that the load driver is boosting both the actuator and the control circuit back to the Classic charge controller. The control wires are some ~400' away, and we're using just a double pair of phone wires for the UG section to the house. This works much, much better now:



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flc1
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Posted: 28 November 2017 at 7:15am | IP Logged Quote flc1

Thats good KS , so its all sorted now? operates how you want it?
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kitestrings
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Posted: 29 November 2017 at 12:30am | IP Logged Quote kitestrings

Yes. In hind-site I should have gone this route. Sometimes it takes me a few tries to get things right ;>]. I found that the signal wire had just enough voltage drop that it was affecting its reliable operation. Also, in cold weather the actuator motor needs a “stiff” somewhat elevated voltage to get it moving. Last night got down to about 5 degF (-15 C) and it worked fine. It’s rated to -15C, but I suspect the white lithium lube is a bit thicker at the lower end of spectrum.

The schematic appears busy, but the concept is not. We have a small, existing 12V battery bank that runs the OH doors and a few lights in the garage. It is tied to our old, tried-and-true Trace inverter. I wanted to avoid having a battery or power supply outside at the tower, due to all the weather/temperature considerations. So, we added a single 12V battery in parallel with the Trace bank, just inside the shop closest to the tower. This battery is isolated from any load(s) by the diode, but it can be charged from the existing sources – primarily the little Rutland charger, and periodically from a trickle charger.

The control wire is long, but is really just an “ignition” signal to the actuator control operating through a dry-contact relay. With the “auto-return” function enabled and 12V+ present, the actuator travels to preset 2 (out, unfurled); with the 12V+ removed, it travels to preset 1 (in, furled).
We’ve had some terrific winds lately. Sunday I started the turbine after breakfast and we logged just under 6 kWh by the time the wind died out around 7-8 PM. The PV array was .3 kWh for the day. We can live with this performance.
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flc1
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Posted: 29 November 2017 at 11:04am | IP Logged Quote flc1

thats good output for the day, can see your turbine is making a good contribution towards your electricity needs.
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