Guru
Joined: 21/06/2018
Location: AustraliaPosts: 1309
| Posted: 03:44pm 11 Sep 2019 |
Hi Andrew (& all), I reckon you grew cobwebs waiting for an answer - sorry for the tardy response, life & the new house took over for a while.
I used the aluminium bar partly because I had lots of it. I prefer to drill and tap a length of bar and then just use a few tapped holes to hold the assembled bar complete with pcb onto the heatsink. It also allows me to run up to full power for brief periods without having a full heatsink attached. If ferrite beads were needed it also helped with clearance. Another reason is that I have a heap of those separate heatsinks and the aluminium bar holds everything together very well
The 10kW rectifier has been shelved as I cant make it work on single phase and I dont have 3phase on this house. In a couple of months I will be in the new house with 3 phase available and then I will continue with it. In the meantime I bought a couple of brand new Eltek flatpack2 rectifiers for $100ea they can supply 2kW of power at 48V and can be paralleled.
They use a rear connector that accepts the edge of a small pcb for 240VAC in and 48VDC out, so I fabricated a suitable 2oz connector PCB and will soon be able to power them up when they arrive here from JL. For me, as I dont yet have batteries it is critical to have a reliable & stable voltage & power reference source to enable me to continue with any meaningful testing. If I make small circuit/choke etc changes I want to know even the small resultant changes in efficiency at low medium and high power levels to know if I am heading in the right direction.
If I do get it wrong, the resultant fault currents are likely to be much lower and do much less overall damage than a string of batteries just itching to release black smoke and flying plastic bits from something unsuspecting....
If at first you dont succeed, I suggest you avoid sky diving....
Cheers Mike