Front panel designer
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Marcel27 Regular Member Joined: 13/08/2024 Location: NetherlandsPosts: 53 |
I came along this Front panel designer . I saw it in an Elektor from 05-2011 and the company still exists. I have no experience with this software but I have the intention to design a new front for my very old Monarch SA-616 amplifier (Germanium type transistor). |
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Mixtel90 Guru Joined: 05/10/2019 Location: United KingdomPosts: 6832 |
Of particular interest if you are in Germany, Canada or the USofA. It might get expensive if you get them to make a panel. |
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PhenixRising Guru Joined: 07/11/2023 Location: United KingdomPosts: 883 |
Oh, perfect. Many thanks for this |
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Marcel27 Regular Member Joined: 13/08/2024 Location: NetherlandsPosts: 53 |
Yes, what I've seen from (dummy) prices they are not cheap but if you have a nice device and you want it to have a nice look again maybe it is worth it. |
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oh3gdo Regular Member Joined: 18/11/2021 Location: FinlandPosts: 47 |
Well, nice work. I have thinked to make a PCB front panel. It costs only few euros and I got 5 pcs from https://jlcpcb.com/ I have already made my PCB. Before it was metal front page and it was one day work to make LCD panel windows I need also some potentriomerts and switches. I still use a metal case https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006053442585.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.21.19f669Vs69VsK4&algo_pvid=5446319d-1c86-43d9-9cc1-355bc8013f53&algo_exp_id=5446319d-1c86-43d9-9cc1-355bc8013f53-10&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2113.11%2113.11%21%21%2198.93%2198.93%21%40211b819117293322713948517eadbd%2112000035512499515%21sea%21FI%21136402714%21X&curPageLogUid=tGpVPInlISBc&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A It is a inclinometer. Pekka Ritamaki |
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Mixtel90 Guru Joined: 05/10/2019 Location: United KingdomPosts: 6832 |
I've made front panels out of all sorts in the past. Plastic or aluminium sheet have been the best or (just about any) PCB material. You can finish them by printing the design onto A4 sticky label and putting that onto the material, covering it with clear plastic film to protect it. My latest panels have been made as PCBs, but you are restricted in size and they aren't all that cheap really. They do look good though. PCB material for a front is interesting as you can connect things like panel-mounted pots via tracks to a connector at one place. It's also good for RF stuff as it creates a screen between your hand and RF components behind it. |
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Marcel27 Regular Member Joined: 13/08/2024 Location: NetherlandsPosts: 53 |
This is the old front front panel. |
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Mixtel90 Guru Joined: 05/10/2019 Location: United KingdomPosts: 6832 |
You can get printable vinyl film in various colours. Using that you could transfer the text onto it (that's a struggle in its own right!) and just "paper over it". Probably only in A4 though... On ebay |
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Martin H. Guru Joined: 04/06/2022 Location: GermanyPosts: 1117 |
Has anyone ever tried printing the lettering mirror-inverted with a laser printer and then ironing it on? |
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Volhout Guru Joined: 05/03/2018 Location: NetherlandsPosts: 4271 |
Yes, but no success. It is not overly resistant. And when you coat it with spray paint it fades. Maybe I did not use the good temperature, or paint. But it is not always working. Volhout |
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Volhout Guru Joined: 05/03/2018 Location: NetherlandsPosts: 4271 |
double Edited 2024-10-19 23:48 by Volhout |
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Volhout Guru Joined: 05/03/2018 Location: NetherlandsPosts: 4271 |
Marcel27, Seen this ? SA-616 - two models Thank you for the link of the front panel designer... It runs flawless on my Ubuntu machine. And you can print 1:1, so also usable for hobby. Volhout Edited 2024-10-20 00:10 by Volhout |
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Andy-g0poy Regular Member Joined: 07/03/2023 Location: United KingdomPosts: 61 |
The designer tool seems fairly useful so thanks. My normal method for home brew panels is to use normal printed images, and then laminate them I then glue the laminated sheet onto the panel after cutting out the holes required. A cheap set of hollow punches does the usual holes for pots and connectors and a scalpel for the larger holes. These is a danger of moisture getting between the laminate layers if you cut off the edge seal, which usually happens, but for internal use it's perfectly OK. If you print on a mylar sheet or OHP sheet then that is pretty much proof against moisture. Works well enough for my needs and looks OK. The image is of a little ESR meter I built a couple of years ago. The box was a little small as usual :-) Andy |
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phil99 Guru Joined: 11/02/2018 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2149 |
Have also done this with good results. A solution is, before laminating cut the paper a little undersize and make the holes a little oversize. When the laminate is cut to size and holes punched you have an edge seal all round. |
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PhenixRising Guru Joined: 07/11/2023 Location: United KingdomPosts: 883 |
Just over 52 Euros (excl postage). Very reasonable |
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Marcel27 Regular Member Joined: 13/08/2024 Location: NetherlandsPosts: 53 |
Yes, I have seen these pages. Mine looks like this before I cleaned it and protected the black resistors with new black protective lacquer. It is also possible to clean the steel case but then I have to disassemble the amplifier and soak it in BioTex soap and that is a no go for me to unsolder all the wires. After cleaning with a damp cloth with cleaning agent, brushes and vacuum cleaner. Here for testing the output power of both channels. Sound is very good for such and old amplifier. Real "Germanium" sound. [edit]All wet capacitors measuring ESR and values within tolerance after 50 years. At that time they produced better capacitors than they do nowadays. I love it the way they handle the "stereo" volume. Just use two single potentiometers for L and R and you have also a balance.[edit] Edited 2024-10-24 15:11 by Marcel27 |
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Volhout Guru Joined: 05/03/2018 Location: NetherlandsPosts: 4271 |
Hi Marcel, Remarkable that the one audio channel has the 0.5 ohm resistors okay, and the other channel seems they are burned. Maybe you should check the burned channel if all resistors are okay, maybe it has a high bias current. I love this way of construction. You remove the bottom, and have access to the whole PCB. All for service. Our government talks and talks about sustainability, durability, and we produce only consumer goods (throw away, not repair). I also have (slightly more modern) radio's that are full functioning, only potmeters needs some maintenance. And now the government decides to drop FM broadcast in 2027. I can throw this good equipment away and buy consumer goods... DAB++ radio (that probably dies in 5 years). It is good you bring this SA-616 back alive.... Volhout P.S. I have restored a 1957 Philips power supply (0-30V 300mA) that has qa quite expensive looking potmeter to adjust. And it does not show any sign of "crackling" or bad linearity. That is a surprize. That power supply is solid state except for the reference voltage, that is a tube. Apparently they could not make good stable zener diodes in 1957. So there is an extra high voltage transformer for this 86V tube reference. P.P.S. I recognize the white plastic box. Babi Pangang, Fou young Hai ? Edited 2024-10-24 16:50 by Volhout |
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Marcel27 Regular Member Joined: 13/08/2024 Location: NetherlandsPosts: 53 |
Hi Volhout, Yes, that's right. One channel is indeed burned out and the previous owner/repairman put in two new germanium transistors. The photo shows two AD162 transistors next to the Japanese transistors. All resistors and capacitors have been re-measured, including the composite resistors, and everything is within tolerance. I love tolerances and they are easy to work with. I don't do recapping because in many cases it is not necessary. Only defective components are replaced. If you are a stickler for detail with this old stuff, you make it extra difficult for yourself. This amplifier has driven my ASW Genius 300 ($$$$) speakers. After thorough inspection, I have complete confidence in this amplifier. Yes, I think it is important to give this old stuff an extended life. It is funny that you mention about the restoration of the 1957 Phillips power supply that the potentiometer does not crackle after so many years. I also noticed the same phenomenon with this Monarch amplifier. All potentiometers were reasonably free of cracking and I could not detect any Deoxit residues that predecessors might have used. What I do with these old potentiometers is powder a small amount of silver graphite over the resistance track. That helps miraculously very well. [Edit on]The white box is from Tau Si Niu, black bean sauce with beef, black bean sauce with squid is also very delicious.[Edit off] Edited 2024-10-24 19:24 by Marcel27 |
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Mixtel90 Guru Joined: 05/10/2019 Location: United KingdomPosts: 6832 |
Quite a lot of the old circuit designs kept DC off the pots, unlike the cheapened modern versions. That was to prevent volume controls from messing up the bias of the following amplifier stages. It makes a big difference to the noise life of the pot. That Monarch is lovely. Dual mono, rather than stereo, we used to call that design. |
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Marcel27 Regular Member Joined: 13/08/2024 Location: NetherlandsPosts: 53 |
The government tells us to have an emergency radio at hand when something happens. DAB+ will stop working first when something happens on a great scale, like a war. Politicians are technical stupid persons in my opinion. You can build a simple fm transmitter in a day with old stuff but not a DAB+ transmitter in case of a war. DAB+ sucks. Edited 2024-10-27 18:07 by Marcel27 |
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