Senior Member
Joined: 11/07/2008
Location: AustraliaPosts: 156
| Posted: 09:55am 01 Oct 2025 |
Hey Godoh.
With the PVC ducting, chose to not go that way as I like the look of a wall without them. Plus a lot easier for me, as I just have to program the switch and mount it anywhere I like.
Smart lights without internet access requirement, is a challenge I took up. I'm into the tech stuff as a hobby. If the proverbial hits the fan and I run out of my supply of coin batteries...will have to go old school with a hard wired wall switch for sure.
The isolation thingy...I have the Heebie Jeebies with anything directly connected to a battery containing a lot of juice. The isolated output on these controllers is 2.5A max. Still that's enough to heat a wire should a fuse not do its job.
I may have gone overkill again for the circuit from LED controller to LED light, using 1.5mm2 silicone/fiberglass-sheathed high temperature cable for a 0.5A/24vDC draw.
I like it as cable is stiff and holds in place and won't deteriorate in a hurry.
PLus I got a few hundred meters cheap from manufacturer in China.
Nod my head and agree with you on the 120vDC ripple free...stuffed if I know where I read it. Just found it. Link I include isHERE
I have copy/paste the article below should the website disappear in future.
I have made it in bold, just to seperate it from my own text.
While the quoted article references shed mounted system and a focus on batteries, I took it upon myself to include my entire ground mounted system that feeds from solar panel to LED light into the house.
"The new battery standard abolishes ELV, instead defining three ranges of decisive voltage classification (DVC). These are categories used in some overseas standards. Non-electricians are now restricted to DVC-A, which includes DC voltages up to 60 volts and AC voltages up to 35 volts."
AND:
"At first glance this limit wouldn’t affect a 12, 24, or 48-volt battery. However, small solar systems often include a solar array with a higher voltage, connected to the battery via a charge controller using maximum power point tracking (MPPT) technology.
For example, two solar panels might be connected on the roof in series so the cable leading to the charge controller carries a voltage up to 90 volts. Since this voltage exceeds DVC-A, under the new standard this is no longer allowed for non-electricians. Even working on the connected 48-volt battery may not be allowed since the charge controller might use a type of ‘non-isolated’ electronics to convert the voltage, which can’t be sufficiently trusted to isolate the battery from the higher voltage, according to AS 5139.
Apart from the voltage level, AS 5139 includes many other requirements for battery installation—refer to the standard for details.
"
Also my reasoning to keep system under a certain capacity/amperage is:
"Reduce the battery size to below 1 kilowatt-hour of energy storage so the new standard doesn’t apply"
Back to your earlier thoughts...
I actually am limiting each circuit to two LED lights per controller. I have enough room for an additional third, should the need arise in future.
....plan in the long term, to use an inverter. Will wire it up and get a sparkie from out of town to certify it over a few beers.
...to overcome the 1 kilowatt-hour battery store limit, I plan on having several individual solar setups with their own circuit etc.. One for the lights (this post here), one for the household water pump, one for the fridge.
Edited 2025-10-01 20:05 by CraziestOzzy