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Benzol
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Joined: 07/01/2015
Location: Australia
Posts: 64

Posted: 09:03am 02 Feb 2018

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Hi All.

I know this is not micro related post but I hope there is someone here that can help.
I have a 12v solar system for all the external LED lighting around my place. Lights are controlled by a micromite touch screen. The regulator I am using is an old BP Solar which has the load across the battery (and charge) thus running all my 12v lights of anything up to 14.5v. A bit too much.

There are 4 main ccts, approx 1A, 1A, 1.5A and 6A. Do the new regulators have a 12v regulated output OR is it possible to regulate each circuit to maintain 12v? I know using a 7812 with power transistors is not an option due to the required voltage differences.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

db

bigmik

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Joined: 20/06/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2971

Posted: 11:07am 02 Feb 2018

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G�day Benzol,

Firstly, checkout the Electronics forum on the back shed as they are almost all solar related..

Now I show my ignorance, what exactly is an old BP Solar?

Regards,

Mick

Mick's uMite Stuff can be found >>> HERE (Kindly hosted by Dontronics) <<<

Benzol
Regular Member

Joined: 07/01/2015
Location: Australia
Posts: 64

Posted: 11:15am 02 Feb 2018

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Hi Mick.
The BP Solar is the solar regulator. It was originally a Telstra item for their solar systems. It only has 3 Terminals, Batt/Array +ve, Array -ve and Battery -ve. The load goes straight the batteries.
Cheers, I will also try the Electronics forum.

db

Quazee137

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Joined: 07/08/2016
Location: United States
Posts: 600

Posted: 02:48pm 03 Feb 2018

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You can see if these will do.

150W DC-DC Boost Converter 10-32V to 12-35V 6A Step Up

Seen them when looking around ebay for a 3.3V to 9v or adj module.

robert.rozee
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Joined: 31/12/2012
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 2463

Posted: 08:55pm 03 Feb 2018

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Benzol said The regulator I am using is an old BP Solar which has the load across the battery (and charge) thus running all my 12v lights of anything up to 14.5v

your battery should not be charged above 13.8 volts. my advice would be to look at adding a large diode in series between the output of the regulator and the battery, this should drop the voltage getting to the battery below 14 volts. it could even be that the regulator was originally intended to have such a series diode installed.

if you want to drop the voltage getting to your lighting a little further, you can also add a (not so large) diode in series with each of the feeds going to your lighting. most silicon diodes drop around 0.6 volts or so. but i would hope that the LED lighting would itself be built to withstand 13.8 volts, as in automotive applications it could well be exposed to this.

cheers,
rob :-)

Benzol
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Joined: 07/01/2015
Location: Australia
Posts: 64

Posted: 01:25pm 05 Feb 2018

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Hi Rob and Quazee137. i like the idea of the buck converter so i will be looking at that further. As a temp measure I have used some diodes to reduce the voltage a bit. the light hasn't diminished much but certainly the heat has dropped. The COB lights i think were not intended for automotive use hence the issue.

Thank you both for the help.

db

CYBERLAB
Newbie

Joined: 08/08/2017
Location: Mexico
Posts: 26

Posted: 07:21am 06 Feb 2018

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hello all, I think you need a step down converter, for example if you use the first boost converter of the image from Quazee137 has these features 150W DC-DC Boost Converter 10-32V to 12-35V and you feed it with 14.5 volts your output will be 14.5 to 35v instead if you use a Step Down Buck Converter 7-40V To 1.2-35V and you feed it with 14.5 your output will be approximately 14 down to 1.2v and this model has a nice voltmeter.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/XL4016-Step-Down-Buck-Converter-7-40V-To-1-2-35V-Power-Module-DC-CC-8A-200-280W/263355214002?ha sh=item3d5131a8b2:m:mlat9DzlEK8cJ0M-kxaR2dQ

Edited by CYBERLAB 2018-02-07

robert.rozee
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Joined: 31/12/2012
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 2463

Posted: 08:33am 06 Feb 2018

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the problem with using a single step-up/down converter is that when all the lights are off the converter is still drawing power. depending on your setup, this 'idle' current may be a problem.

one other option may be to have a 24v distribution system, with small 12v step-down converters at each light fitting.

cheers,
rob :-)

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