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Forum Index : Microcontroller and PC projects : Digital Microscope
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| Malibu Senior Member  Joined: 07/07/2018 Location: AustraliaPosts: 146 |
G'day all  Not really uController related, but a quick heads-up for anyone that may not have seen these (and particularly if, like me, you can't see the side of a barn without glasses [or maybe even WITH your glasses...]!) With a bit of a hesitant splurge on flea-bay, I picked up this "Andonstar" digital microscope and it turns out better than what I thought it would be! I actually got this to check out tool condition for my cnc, but is great for SM components as well. A 4.something LCD screen with a couple of lights on goosenecks, 1080p resolution with the ability to take snap-shots and videos that can be stored on an SD card. Also has 5X digital zoom. Can also connect to a PC via USB. All for a bit over 100 bucks, delivered... The unit (Sorry, I don't know why it's side on)...   R1 on the back of an ILI9341 display  Same R1 view with 5X zoom applied All up, I thought it was pretty good for the $$ value (maybe a tiny bit unsteady when adjusting the focal length, but once it's there, it holds perfect position) Hope it helps anyone that might be in the market for one John |
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bigmik Guru  Joined: 20/06/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2870 |
Good Find Malibu, I just bought one.. was just under $95..AU.. Let you know what I think when it arrives.. I just did a lot of SMD work last week and it would have been nice to have it then.. I like the twin gooseneck leds. Regards, Mick Mick's uMite Stuff can be found >>> HERE (Kindly hosted by Dontronics) <<< |
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SimpleSafeName Senior Member Joined: 28/07/2019 Location: United StatesPosts: 286 |
Very, very, nice! I've got an Amscope that cost me several times as much, and yours looks like it would fit the bill just as nicely. |
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palcal Guru Joined: 12/10/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1798 |
I have an Amscope as well but I think this digital job would be much more versatile. "It is better to be ignorant and ask a stupid question than to be plain Stupid and not ask at all" |
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Grogster Admin Group  Joined: 31/12/2012 Location: New ZealandPosts: 9060 |
I also have an AmScope, and I love it. This thing looks like a nice find indeed though. I'm tempted to get one even though I have the AmScope!  EDIT: Here is a link to one.... Edited 2019-08-25 10:05 by Grogster Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops! |
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| bigmik Guru Joined: 20/06/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2870 |
Lads, Just be careful, it `appears' that the model AD106 has no goose-neck lights but the AD106S has the lights.. Some units show the picture of the AD106S but description states AD106. The unit I bought states AD106S and shows the goose-necks. Anyway I will let you know when mine arrives.. I also have a medical grade microscope which is pretty good but I find my eyesight is struggling to focus on the lenses as I want. I have an el-cheapo, similar to this but no where near as good, that I am reasonably happy with but this looks a more more professional unit. Kind Regards, Mick Mick's uMite Stuff can be found >>> HERE (Kindly hosted by Dontronics) <<< |
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| palcal Guru Joined: 12/10/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1798 |
From Australia see here AU$84 HERE Albeit with $16 postage but quicker than coming from China Edited 2019-08-25 13:39 by palcal "It is better to be ignorant and ask a stupid question than to be plain Stupid and not ask at all" |
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disco4now Guru Joined: 18/12/2014 Location: AustraliaPosts: 844 |
Ok,I have resisted as long as I can. One on the way. Latest F4 Latest H7 |
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Poppy Guru Joined: 25/07/2019 Location: GermanyPosts: 486 |
It is not obvious to me on the pictures so please tell me if such a digital microscope is just for inspection or is there enough space under the camera to solder unrestrictedly?  For myself I still have one of this kind standing around but actually never used it yet for electronics (still forcing my weary eyes to renounce): https://cdn7.bigcommerce.com/s-ufhcuzfxw9/images/stencil/1280x1280/products/11225/13524/MI-410TB10__29253.1503517896.jpg Andre ... such a GURU? | ||||
| Malibu Senior Member Joined: 07/07/2018 Location: AustraliaPosts: 146 |
G'day all, Glad to see there's a bit of interest in this and I'm looking forward to other opinions too I haven't done any soldering using it yet, but I don't see that it would be an issue. I cranked the gadget up to full height on the support arm and with the 5X magnification dialed in, there was around 95mm clearance between the board and the lens - still with oodles of screen clarity. (You can actually get a longer focal length but this is the limit of the supplied support bracket. Naturally, the further away you get, the smaller the image will be) I'd probably suggest a small fan to blow away any solder fumes from the filter cap, but apart from that, I can't see soldering to be a problem.  Here's the same LCD board with the same resistor and a piece of 0.7mm RC solder for comparison. I didn't have enough hands to get the Weller in the picture too, but with a 3mm chisel bit in place - it kind of dwarfed everything else! For me, that would be big and clear enough to solder underneath it. For a size idea, the screen print around R1 on the microscope screen measures 30mm X 15mm. John |
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| ceptimus Senior Member Joined: 05/07/2019 Location: United KingdomPosts: 130 |
The usual problem with soldering, or doing other "live" work under these digital microscopes is the latency (delay) between something happening and it being displayed on screen. The ones with a big latency are still good for inspection, but are frustrating when trying to place SMDs or when soldering. Good old-fashioned optical microscopes, especially the binocular type, are best for this sort of work, but the good ones are expensive and heavy. You can get some bargains second hand or from bankrupt sales though. You don't want or need huge amounts of magnification: something like 10x is good. That being said, the digital kind are much better than nothing, and the newer better ones have much-reduced latency compared to the earlier generations - maybe the best ones have effectively eliminated the delay entirely. Edited 2019-08-25 19:06 by ceptimus |
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| Poppy Guru Joined: 25/07/2019 Location: GermanyPosts: 486 |
Thanks for showing and further explaining.  How thick is the solder wire you all usually use for SMD, I generally got used to 0.56mm and thinner ones are so expensive. Andre ... such a GURU? | ||||
| ceptimus Senior Member Joined: 05/07/2019 Location: United KingdomPosts: 130 |
I use solder paste for SMDs. You apply a tiny bit of paste which has a similar consistency to toothpaste, and place the parts - the paste holds them in position. You don't need to be super-accurate with placing the paste as it flows onto the pads when it melts. You then heat the whole board/area that needs soldering. I normally use the hot-plate method, but sometimes a hot air gun. People who do a lot of SMD stuff often use a toaster-oven. If you're going to try it, dedicate an oven for this work: don't use the same oven you use to cook food for containing lead vapour and flux fumes! . Edited 2019-08-26 00:36 by ceptimus |
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| Poppy Guru Joined: 25/07/2019 Location: GermanyPosts: 486 |
Actually I am not that keen on soldering SMD, there are just some single parts by the way so that I am generally still hooked on soldering iron and wire. Andre ... such a GURU? | ||||
| ceptimus Senior Member Joined: 05/07/2019 Location: United KingdomPosts: 130 |
If you're doing the odd part, ordinary solder works. It doesn't need to be super fine solder: 1mm or 2mm works okay. For packages with closely spaced pins, it's easier not to try to solder them individually. Use plenty of water-based flux (you can buy it in bottles with an applicator brush - like nail varnish bottles). Then wipe a blob of melted solder across all the pins. If you've got way too much solder it does bridge between the pins, but you can then use de-soldering braid to suck away the excess. . Edited 2019-08-26 00:51 by ceptimus |
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| Poppy Guru Joined: 25/07/2019 Location: GermanyPosts: 486 |
Thanks for the advices! I never heard of water-based flux before, generally using rosin dissolved in pure isopropyl alcohol. For cleaning I flush with pure IPA after, solder excess is taken off with desolder-wick of course. But I am not talking about 64 or 100 pin CPUs for soldering all pins in a row, just a single 0805 resistor for example. I think the thinner the wire is the easier it could be, the thinnest I use just is 0.54mm. A 0.35mm wire would cost about 6-8 times as much and I donīt know if itīs worth its price or if itīs really easier to apply. Andre ... such a GURU? | ||||
| vk4cuz Newbie  Joined: 10/08/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 4 |
Bought a similar digital microscope in order to construct and solder the Micromites. Very happy with it. Worked well as able to clearly see and solder the pins of the 64 pin Pic and other SMD devices. Used a computer monitor using HDMI connection from Microscope, rather than the display on top. No latency that mattered. Also has a USB connection. This has significant latency that is a problem for soldering. I don't use this mode. Gary |
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| Poppy Guru Joined: 25/07/2019 Location: GermanyPosts: 486 |
What is the exact name/brand of your microscope and how expensive? Andre ... such a GURU? | ||||
| vk4cuz Newbie Joined: 10/08/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 4 |
Got mine from Banggood. Digitl Microscope Was on special when I got it, but this site has a lot of other options. Gary |
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| bigmik Guru Joined: 20/06/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2870 |
Mine arrived Yesterday, Whilst I havent used it for any serious stuff I think it is excellent for the price. First impressions: PRO: Strong, stable base plate excellent clarity on the TFT screen (Much MUCH better than my el-cheapo) has a digital zoom feature (7 steps) Has a record and snapshot feature (not tried yet as I havent connected to my PC yet) Has a decent wind up and down dual knob feature to focus (as per professional scopes) Excellent lighting from the 2 goose necks. There seems a good distance from the tip of the scope to the working area to allow a soldering iron access without too much compromise. (prob about 40-50mm) Cheap at about $95 AUS from eBay. Cons: (Not many) It seems to be hard to remove the small dust cover plate (Bleh!! big deal) The pole to base mechanism is hard to lock down so it wont move (screw nut) i have to use all my `feeble' strength the goose neck lights are a bit stiff for my liking but do hold in position reasonably well. Over all I am very pleased, thank you Malibu. Kind Regards, Mick Mick's uMite Stuff can be found >>> HERE (Kindly hosted by Dontronics) <<< |
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