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Forum Index : Microcontroller and PC projects : Is it worth fixing?
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MOBI Guru ![]() Joined: 02/12/2012 Location: AustraliaPosts: 819 |
Hi all, I have (had) a CGCOLORMAX1 and accidentally (why would you do it on purpose?) dropped a jumper lead from the IO pins to a spot on the board where it could do the most damage. Stupidly, I had power applied to the board. Testing shows power supplies to be in the right places but it looks like the PIC32 is cactus. Is it worth replacing the PIC? or is the repair process too fiddly. There are quite a few smd components near the PIC. If it is not worth fixing, does anyone recommend a cheaper and simpler replacement board? David M. |
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jman![]() Guru ![]() Joined: 12/06/2011 Location: New ZealandPosts: 711 |
Hi Fix it. I have one these boards so I took a quick look and I reckon to replace the PIC is totally doable Regards Jman |
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WhiteWizzard Guru ![]() Joined: 05/04/2013 Location: United KingdomPosts: 2933 |
If you think it is the PIC, and have one spare, then I would personally do a quick swap over. I am sure you know how to do it (or have your 'preferred' method), but in case not, then this is the way I would approach it: Use a sharp scalpel blade to cut along all the rows of pins close to the main body of the PIC (i.e. cut out the black bit!). This results in rows of pins left soldered to the board which can now very easily be removed with an iron and solder braid. Once all the pins are removed, use the solder braid + iron to remove any 'excess' solder - this will flatten all the pads (ready to accept the new PIC). I use this approach whenever there are other SMDs in close proximity (as you mention). IF no nearby components then I use a gas powered heat-gun and a pair of tweezers (but this method can lead to 'scorching' of the PCB depending upon it's composition). Good luck . . . . . (and let us know how it goes!) WW |
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MicroBlocks![]() Guru ![]() Joined: 12/05/2012 Location: ThailandPosts: 2209 |
Which PIC is on that board. I might have a spare lying around looking for a good place to work. :) . Microblocks. Build with logic. |
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bigmik![]() Guru ![]() Joined: 20/06/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2949 |
Hi Mobi, If it were mine I would fix it.. What have you got to lose? (about $10 from RS Components with their free shipping... I havent looked the exact price up but will be within a dollar of two either way... I would use my hot air gun (rework station) to remove the old chip and clean up the pads with solder wick then solder the new chip.. If you are stuck or dont feel confident drop me a PM. Regards, Mick PS. Maybe change the VCap first just in case.. Mik Mick's uMite Stuff can be found >>> HERE (Kindly hosted by Dontronics) <<< |
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CircuitGizmos![]() Guru ![]() Joined: 08/09/2011 Location: United StatesPosts: 1427 |
Is it worth the cost to you of shipping back here? (US) Would be a factory fix. Micromites and Maximites! - Beginning Maximite |
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MOBI Guru ![]() Joined: 02/12/2012 Location: AustraliaPosts: 819 |
G'day all, @CG - thanks for the offer - If I can't get it working, I'll purchase another. Thanks everyone for all the tips. I have removed and replaced a 100 pin pic32 before but that was on a breakout board and there were no smd components in close proximity. I used the scalpel method. I have a spare PIC32MX795 512L-801/PF but have to check if it is a direct pin for pin replacement otherwise I order a couple. My guessing is that it is as I wired up a MM in modular form using a 795 and it all worked. I have to do a bit more diagnostic checking before willy nilly ripping the PIC out. something pretty catastrophic has happened though because PicKit3 doesn't even recognise a target PIC. I'll take a few photos along the way. My main concern is my failing eyesight. Even stereo goggles are not as effective as they used to be. I've got a couple of Senate submissions to write so it might be a day or three before I get to do any more testing. PS - That was a couple of days ago and I have finished the Senate stuff, so I'll see what I can find tomorrow. David M. |
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MOBI Guru ![]() Joined: 02/12/2012 Location: AustraliaPosts: 819 |
Hi all, We have a happy camper here. Replaced the PIC32 chip and all works just fine. I did have a heart stopping moment when I connected power to the board after replacing the chip and nothing worked. Like Charlie Drake's politically incorrect song of yester year "my boomerang won't come back", "if you want your pic 32 to work, then first you have to flash it." The replacement procedure was as the various advice given: - use a sharp scalpel to cut the PIC pins as close to the PIC as possible and then, - use a not too hot soldering iron to clean the remaining legs from the board. - apply a film of flux paste to the pads and level the solder left on the pads once again with a not too hot iron. - apply a small dob of heat sink paste to hold the chip in place - align the chip and carefully run the iron over the chip legs. Aligning was a little tricky as the pads were slightly hilled with the previous solder. I took some photos, but they really don't show more than I described. If you have a board, then you'll know what it all looks like. My main concern was my eyesight but using stereo goggles with both lenses (full strength), a bright fluoro up close and about 15 minutes of muttering mild oaths, all was success. I'll do a I/O check on all pins but I'm pretty confident everything will work. Thanks again for all advice and encouragement. ====== I forgot to mention that before I started the operation, I ran the cro over the xtal and the frequency and voltage were as per specs, so I was pretty sure I had cooked a vital I/O pin. It is nice to have a back up again. David M. |
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WhiteWizzard Guru ![]() Joined: 05/04/2013 Location: United KingdomPosts: 2933 |
![]() Nice going MOBI - and glad you have it back . . . . WW |
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paceman Guru ![]() Joined: 07/10/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1329 |
Well that's pretty encouraging David. So far I haven't managed to kill a chip but now that I've said that I probably shouldn't have! I'll give it a go now too if it happens. Greg |
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