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Forum Index : Microcontroller and PC projects : help with power up on colour Maximite

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jeffj
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Joined: 04/02/2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 80
Posted: 04:56pm 11 Oct 2015
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Hi folks I hope someone can help
I installed a new chip and all worked fine except the SD card would not work. After exploring the forum on this problem I found that there was no clock pulse . The computer worked ok for several weeks then suddenly stopped. I obtained another chip from Silicon Chip and carefully installed it .
I just cannot get it fire up, I have double checked everything and resoldered the pins .
I am getting 1.8 v on pin 80
Power up led is ok
3.3v on all of the power supply pins and 0v on the 0v pins
I am getting 0.8 Mhz on pins 63 and 64 Not 8 Mhz as I was expecting
I have swapped the 8 Mhz crystal and 22 pf caps -still the same
There is no clock pulses on pins 80 or 39
Power into the card is only 2.5 mA
Any help would be appreciated
 
TassyJim

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Joined: 07/08/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 5914
Posted: 07:57pm 11 Oct 2015
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The usual suspect is the 10uF capacitor on Vcap. (Pin 85)

Jim
VK7JH
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WhiteWizzard
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Joined: 05/04/2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2794
Posted: 10:32pm 11 Oct 2015
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Hi Jeff,

From reading your description, it sounds like you've replaced your chip twice now. This can put a lot of 'strain' on the pcb tracks (heat damage can lift them) and hence the first thing I would do is get a multimeter and check continuity between the PIC pins, and the track's destination.

To do this I would build a test probe comprising of a pin (or needle) to give you the ability to accurately probe each PIC pin. Attach a piece of wire to a pin/needle and then connect to your MultiMeter. If you don't have a meter handy, then make a quick circuit with an LED or Buzzer.

Begin with the obvious pins supplying power; and also the reset pin and the Vcap pins.

It is concerning you say only 2.5mA into 'card' (I assume you mean the whole PCB as opposed to the SD card socket).

Do check correct orientation of the PIC chip (I have seen this error twice before). Also, do you have a PicKit to reprogram the firmware?

Awaiting your response for more clues . . . . .
For everything Micromite visit micromite.org

Direct Email: whitewizzard@micromite.o
 
jeffj
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Joined: 04/02/2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 80
Posted: 11:52pm 13 Oct 2015
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Thanks for that. 2.5 mA is for the board not just the chip.
I wasn't aware of a reset pin .I will check that out . I removed the chip with a heat gun and a screen, all traces look good but I will do as you suggest.
The orientation is ok.
When I checked the power supplies I took care to measure the volts on the chip itself so am reasonably confidant that the tracks are ok
Thanks again for your help
 
Geoffg

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Joined: 06/06/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 3165
Posted: 01:50am 14 Oct 2015
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2.5mA is a sure sign that the CPU is not running. I bet that it is the capacitor on Vcap (should be Tantalum or ceramic) or possibly the crystal and its padding caps.
Geoff Graham - http://geoffg.net
 
jeffj
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Joined: 04/02/2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 80
Posted: 02:53pm 14 Oct 2015
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Thanks for yr comments
I have tested all tracks all ok
I have swapped the 10 microF for another tantalum
I have already swapped the crystal and caps
I should have mentioned that when I was checking the oscillator,the run light came on for a few mins and then went off . I couldn't reproduce it again
Which pin is the reset pin I could not find it
regards jeff
 
BobD

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Joined: 07/12/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 935
Posted: 03:15pm 14 Oct 2015
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Here is a circuit diagram of the Colour Maximite. Click the diagram for a larger image.
Reset is MCLR pin 13 towards the lower right hand side in this diagram. It is pulled high with a 10K resistor. A low on this line will force a reset.
 
WhiteWizzard
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Posted: 07:42pm 14 Oct 2015
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Hi jeffj,

Sounds like you are narrowing things down there.
You have confirmed everything from my first post apart from two things.
1> Checking the reset pin (this must be high to run properly so check it as if it were a +v input!
2> Do you have a PicKit2 or 3 (or other programmer) to re-program the firmware?

Another thing worth checking are the solder joints to all components. Sometimes what appears to be a good connection is actually a dry joint (hence open circuit). I have even had this with surface mount components recently (one of the 22pF smd crystal caps on an Explore64 module). So when checking continuity, test from/to the component lead rather then the solder 'blob'.

Good luck . . .

WW
For everything Micromite visit micromite.org

Direct Email: whitewizzard@micromite.o
 
WhiteWizzard
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Joined: 05/04/2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2794
Posted: 07:48pm 14 Oct 2015
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Something else that springs to mind is that AVdd (pin 30 in the above diagram) needs to be connected (i.e. high).

I seem to remember that if not connected (as on some TFQP breakout boards) then the thing would not fire up. That said, I am sure it pulled more than 2.5mA.

Two more things worth checking:
1> Your 3v3 regulator is ok. It may reproducing the correct voltage, but if faulty, it won't be able to supply the necessary current.
2> Your PSU. If a bench power supply, have you accidentally turned down the 'available current'? Always worth checking, then re-checking the power supply in these types of situations where the circuit performs strangely!

WW
For everything Micromite visit micromite.org

Direct Email: whitewizzard@micromite.o
 
jeffj
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Joined: 04/02/2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 80
Posted: 01:02am 15 Oct 2015
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Thank you all for the suggestions
The reset sounds promising.
Re a programmer no I do not have one
I will give it a go and report back jeff
 
jeffj
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Joined: 04/02/2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 80
Posted: 11:36am 15 Oct 2015
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I think I have done all suggested
The reset pin is high I shorted it to earth but no effect
I have already resoldered all pins and caps and checked continuity
power supplies ok 5v at reg1 and 3.3 at reg2 and volts getting to chip ok
pin 30 3.3v

By the way whoever suggested to use cellotape to position a new chip deserves a medal
works really well especially for geriatrics like me


Jeff
 
jeffj
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Joined: 04/02/2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 80
Posted: 11:13pm 20 Oct 2015
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I have installed a new chip
The current is exactly the same
I Accidently shorted out one of the oscillator capacitors and 2 or 3 secs later it powered up ok. I repeated this several times. As long as power stays on it runs
happily
Anyone have some ideas?
Jeff

.
 
WhiteWizzard
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Joined: 05/04/2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2794
Posted: 11:27pm 20 Oct 2015
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It sounds like you may have a 'broken' cap. I have had these break before (not on a MaxiMite or MicroMite - but on a PIC circuit requiring crystal and caps). Both SMD and ceramic through holes can break easily if too much stress is put on them.

Are you able to replace the cap too see if this sorts things out. Finally, if this fails (and worth replacing both caps) then I would look at replacing the crystal.

Sounds like there isn't enough initial power in the oscillator circuit to get things going - but then once started, it is fine.

You're almost there by the sound of it! . . . .

WW
For everything Micromite visit micromite.org

Direct Email: whitewizzard@micromite.o
 
MicroBlocks

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Joined: 12/05/2012
Location: Thailand
Posts: 2209
Posted: 11:30pm 20 Oct 2015
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Check the datasheet of the crystal.
22pf is just a generic size and could be the wrong one.
I suspect you need something smaller like 10pf.

Microblocks. Build with logic.
 
WhiteWizzard
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Joined: 05/04/2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2794
Posted: 11:34pm 20 Oct 2015
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Also check for dry joints on two caps & crystal - any will cause issues in this part of the circuit!
For everything Micromite visit micromite.org

Direct Email: whitewizzard@micromite.o
 
TassyJim

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Joined: 07/08/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 5914
Posted: 10:55am 21 Oct 2015
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If it's a through-hole crystal, the case could be shorting out to a track.

Jim
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bigmik

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Joined: 20/06/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2870
Posted: 12:06pm 22 Oct 2015
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Hi Jeff,

I have been working 80-90hrs per week (I work in the HORSE racing game and we are building up to the Melbourne cup in a bit over a week) so I have been very quiet on TBS recently,

Whilst I am not in a position to help much until the week after the Melbourne Cup (about 9th or 10th of November) I am happy to assist you in getting it going if you are still stuck then.

I am in Melbourne, where are you based?

These may have already been mentioned but firstly check the following.

Voltage is 3.3v and seems stable on your meter (ie not varying a bit)
There is 3.3v on the MCLR pin (pin 13) probably easiest to measure at pin 1 of con 7.
Check that (with power off) you have 10k between Pin1 and pin2 of con 7
Check C10 (the most critical component on board) that it is connected to Pin 85 of the Pic32 and GND
Make sure that polarity (if it is a polarised chip is correct) --- NOTE -- if it is a tantalum the BAR indicates the +ve leg (goes to pin 85)

You could try soldering a 22uf to 47uf tantalum (care with polarity) in parallel with C10

If that all checks out OK I would guess your Pic is not flashed..

Regards,

Mick
Edited by bigmik 2015-10-23
Mick's uMite Stuff can be found >>> HERE (Kindly hosted by Dontronics) <<<
 
jeffj
Regular Member

Joined: 04/02/2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 80
Posted: 11:39am 23 Oct 2015
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Bingo
Adding a 47 microfarad across c10 did the trick .Prior to this I tried 12 pF at the oscillators with no effect
In my ignorance I didn't know that tantalums are polarised It was by chance I had installed the c10 correctly

regarding where I am- Sydney
Thanks everyone for yr efforts I have been tearing my hair out over this I didn't have much before.
 
TassyJim

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Location: Australia
Posts: 5914
Posted: 12:44pm 23 Oct 2015
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Good to see it working.
Thanks for reporting back with the solution - it will help others who have similar problems.

Jim
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Grogster

Admin Group

Joined: 31/12/2012
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 9066
Posted: 03:26pm 23 Oct 2015
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I 2nd what Jim said. Sometimes, the OP never posts back again, and we are all left wondering if the problem ever got fixed, or did the OP just give up on that totally and drop it. It's always nice to know - even if the latter is actually the decision.

As you have discovered, that Vcap is CRITICAL. It absolutely must be installed correctly and working, or the PIC32 core won't run, or it will run sporadically. I have been following this thread with interest to see the final cause, so, not to paraphrase Jim, but yes, thanks for letting everyone know you have it going.
Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops!
 
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