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Forum Index : Microcontroller and PC projects : Which Micromite?

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Gizmo

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Joined: 05/06/2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 5031
Posted: 12:52am 07 Aug 2017
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I have a new project for a Micromite, so today I did some research to see if any of the Maximites / Micromites I already have will do the job. I've been out of the loop on the latest updates to the Micromite range.

I want to upgrade my solar charge controller. Its currently using a CGMMSTICK1 from Circuit Gizmo, and been working reliably for a few years now. I'm using 5 analogue inputs and 5 digital outputs, and the composite video output to display stuff. My upgrade will need 3 of those outputs to do PWM, uninterrupted. Now I suspect the CGMMSTICK1 running 4.5 wont let me run 3 PWM outputs, from what I can find its only got support for one.

So, if the CGMMSTICK1 cant drive 3 PWM outputs, I need to upgrade. I do have one of Micks original 170 BackPacks with LCD, be nice to use the LCD and add some colour, but the pins left over after the LCD takes its share isn't enough.

Ideally, I need 5 analogue inputs ( 6 would be nice ), 3 PWM outputs, 2 digital outputs, and a pin for a DS18B20 temp sensor. And a way to communicate with it, either a Composite output and PS2 keyboard, or a LCD Panel with touch.

Any suggestions?

Glenn
The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago, the second best time is right now.
JAQ
 
flip
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Joined: 18/07/2016
Location: Australia
Posts: 114
Posted: 01:38am 07 Aug 2017
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Glenn,
I am working on a similar project using an MX170 as a 3A Solar 12V battery charger

As the MX170 chip is only $5-ish, you could use MX170 as a stand-alone charge controller, with your existing CGMM / composite video setup talking to the MX170's console port (and even monitoring/resetting it if necessary). You'd have the full 19 pins - more than enough available for your PWM A/Ds etc.
If you wanted a complete standalone setup with serial LCD setup, the backpack LCD design takes 8 of those pins, this would leave you 11 pins...5 A/D, 3PWM, 2 Digital out, 1 x DS18B20...exactly enough. Depending on your circuitry sometimes a pin can be shared to even get that extra pin.

Regards,
Phil
 
WhiteWizzard
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Joined: 05/04/2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2794
Posted: 01:42am 07 Aug 2017
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Hi Glenn,

I would personally recommend a Micromite Plus as it has 'easier' control over a TFT (when compared to aStandard Micromite). Even though a standard Micromite can control a TFT, I am sure others will agree with me that the MM Plus is more 'friendly'.

So this points towards a 64pin or a 100pin MicroMite - both more than capable of the I/Os you require.

In SC Nov 2016 edition there was a nice Micromite Plus LCD BackpPack module. This was based on a Explore64 with a 2.8" bolted on the front. This would be the easiest to get going as everything is already connected for you. Turn to Page 64 if you have a copy of that edition!

Alternatively, take an Explore64 and wire up a TFT yourself (details in the MM+ manual on Geoff's website).
This option, albeit a bit more tricky to wire up, will allow for a larger (and higher res) TFT.

The next step up would be an Explore 100 module that is plug-in compatible with a larger screen, Designed for direct mount to a 5" TFT - this offers 800x480 pixel resolution and is much faster at drawing on theTFT as it uses a parallel interface (the 2.8" TFTs use a slower SPI interface).

Hope the above gives you bit of a clearer picture.
There are other options; but cost / ease-of-use / screen-size then I'd recommend one of the above.

Wait to see what others post here . . .

WW
For everything Micromite visit micromite.org

Direct Email: whitewizzard@micromite.o
 
plover

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Joined: 18/04/2013
Location: Australia
Posts: 302
Posted: 02:21am 07 Aug 2017
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I have been struggling with getting to grips 28 pin Micromites and MMBASIC, using two of Micks boards, Mup-v3 and Mup-v2 and happen to have my first success with the PWM.

More for my own record I will list a few details

There are two independent controllers for PWM, capable of PWM from 20 Hz to 500kHz. Voltage swing 0V to 3.3V in my case I had nois spikes at the transitions edges but it was a poor setup, GNG connection to CRO was any PCB ground I could connect to. There is no leeway 20 Hz or more or 500,000 Hz or less that is it.

Ch1, 3 pins, 4, 5, 6
Ch2, 2 pins, 24, 26

This leaves two Analog Inputs / Digital Inputs PIN 1 and 23 which will not be required for other functions.

There will be more Analogue Inputs but the pins serves other functions which may prohibit their use as Analogue Inputs.

MM Basic Manual 5.4 page 7 has layout.

Program format:
PWM 1, 1024, 25, 55, 80 <--- chanel 1, pin4 25%, pin5 55%, pin6 80%
will run until:
PWM 1, STOP

I think the 28 pin chip gives you no room to move, just in case you would like to add xyz. Edited by plover 2017-08-08
 
piclover
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Joined: 14/06/2015
Location: France
Posts: 134
Posted: 03:34am 07 Aug 2017
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Personally, I love the 28 pins Micromite (my old eyes dislike SMDs very much...), so I'd use it for your use case...

Especially since it's easy to save more pins by moving the LCD I/F to the SPI port (using a 74HC164 8 bits shift register) which would save 2 pins (4, if you have some other use for the SPI port), when compared to the standard 4 bits LCD interface. You will need only one pin for LCD E and another for LCD RS in excess of the 2 SPI pins.
You can even save one more pin, by connecting LCD RS to the SPI data pin and get a 3 pins I/F to the LCD (see http://www.ekenrooi.net/lcd/lcd_examp.shtml#_3 for this smart solution).
Granted, you cannot rely on the built-in LCD MMBASIC command with such an I/F, but driving a LCD via SPI in BASIC is still very easy.
 
Phil23
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Joined: 27/03/2016
Location: Australia
Posts: 1664
Posted: 11:19am 07 Aug 2017
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I use a few 28 pin Backpacks, but unfortunately it's easy to run out of pins.
Sounds like you will be sailing at the limit of a 28pin BP, particularly if you want to add some coms.

The CGMicroboard2 fits in nicely for those jobs & it's price is hard to beat.
LCD with touch is really handy to modify parameter right at the device.

Added bonus is the SD card logging, which would be valuable in the development phase.

Also like the look of the Backpack Plus'; prefer it's form factor, but the CG got me on price originally, (Pre BP+ release).

About 2 to 1 at current exchange rates.

Phil.

 
Gizmo

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Joined: 05/06/2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 5031
Posted: 12:28pm 07 Aug 2017
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I'm leaning towards a 28pin Micromite ver 5 with a 2004A LCD ( 20 col, 4 lines ), with a couple of buttons to navigate the menus. I've used this combination in the past for a controller and I have the parts in stock.

But thanks, I'll look into the suggestions from others before I start building anything.

Glenn
The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago, the second best time is right now.
JAQ
 
Quazee137

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Joined: 07/08/2016
Location: United States
Posts: 526
Posted: 02:58pm 07 Aug 2017
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I like the 28 pin and 2.8" LCD makes a great GUI.

Then use the ADS1115 to get 4 single ADC channels
I am using it to get 1 differential and 2 single channels.

Just now trying the PCF8574 to drive a 4 relay module
and read 4 flow switches/meters.

And have the RTC module too.

Quazee137
 
GoodToGo!

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Joined: 23/04/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 188
Posted: 03:10pm 07 Aug 2017
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Gizmo, if you use one of those nifty I2c adaptors on the back of the LCD panel then you'll release a lot of pins for other uses.

Quazee, i've used the same nifty I2c (PCF8574) adaptor as mentioned above bolted to 4 relay modules with success. On the same I2c bus, I have a 16x2 LCD, and 4 INA219 current sensors. Works great!

Cheers,

GTG!
...... Don't worry mate, it'll be GoodToGo!
 
GoodToGo!

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Joined: 23/04/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 188
Posted: 03:12pm 07 Aug 2017
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  WhiteWizzard said   Hi Glenn,

I would personally recommend a Micromite Plus as it has 'easier' control over a TFT (when compared to aStandard Micromite). Even though a standard Micromite can control a TFT, I am sure others will agree with me that the MM Plus is more 'friendly'.

So this points towards a 64pin or a 100pin MicroMite - both more than capable of the I/Os you require.

In SC Nov 2016 edition there was a nice Micromite Plus LCD BackpPack module. This was based on a Explore64 with a 2.8" bolted on the front. This would be the easiest to get going as everything is already connected for you. Turn to Page 64 if you have a copy of that edition!



+1.

Couldn't agree more, on all counts.

...... Don't worry mate, it'll be GoodToGo!
 
Tinine
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Joined: 30/03/2016
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1646
Posted: 11:45pm 07 Aug 2017
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I prefer to use my Android devices as HMIs for everything I do, typically via Bluetooth.

For my latest (paid-for) project, I have decided to try the RFO BASIC interpreter which I am very impressed with. It is also known as BASIC! (with exclamation). This open-source interpreter runs directly on the Android device and BT comms couldn't be easier. I prefer not to code on the device so I use "BASIC! Launcher", which uses Notepad++. One can edit the code on the PC and Shift+F5 immediately transfers the code to the device and runs the program.

There is a very cool RAD tool that incorporates BASIC!; "RFODESIGNER" for super quick GUI development. One has the option to forever run the code in the interpreter or "compile" (more correctly, bundle) to a standalone app (APK).

For me, dedicated HMIs are redundant. They receive the most physical abuse and an entire control system can be rendered useless for the sake of a failed proprietary user interface.

JMO.

Regards,

Tinine.

Edit: Forgot to mention that this project consists of a MM E100 for the actual controller and an Android tablet (ruggedised) for the UI.
Edited by Tinine 2017-08-09
 
CaptainBoing

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Joined: 07/09/2016
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1986
Posted: 12:34am 08 Aug 2017
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  Tinine said   I prefer to use my Android devices as HMIs for everything I do, typically via Bluetooth.

For my latest (paid-for) project, I have decided to try the RFO BASIC interpreter which I am very impressed with. It is also known as BASIC! (with exclamation). This open-source interpreter runs directly on the Android device and BT comms couldn't be easier. I prefer not to code on the device so I use "BASIC! Launcher", which uses Notepad++. One can edit the code on the PC and Shift+F5 immediately transfers the code to the device and runs the program.

There is a very cool RAD tool that incorporates BASIC!; "RFODESIGNER" for super quick GUI development. One has the option to forever run the code in the interpreter or "compile" (more correctly, bundle) to a standalone app (APK).

For me, dedicated HMIs are redundant. They receive the most physical abuse and an entire control system can be rendered useless for the sake of a failed proprietary user interface.



cheers for that, opens up all sorts of possibilities. For me, the difficult bit has always been the Android IDE. Will play
 
Tinine
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Joined: 30/03/2016
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1646
Posted: 01:23am 08 Aug 2017
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  CaptainBoing said  

For me, the difficult bit has always been the Android IDE. Will play


Oh, horrible...I won't even go there.

If you ever need the performance of a truly compiled app, I have been using B4A for over 5 years which is also very easy to use and actually has a library for USB-serial comms. I prefer Bluetooth.


Re: RFO BASIC:

As stated, I use:

BASIC! interpreter
BASIC! Launcher
RFODESIGNER

I typically edit in RFODESIGNER but also have the same file open in BASIC! Launcher Notepad++

For a quick code test, I switch to Launcher Notepad++ where I find a pop-up dialog, stating that the file has been modified (RFODESIGNER...remember to Save the edit) and do I want to update(?).
I update and then hit Shift-F5 and the code instantly transfers to my device over WiFi and runs.

If I want to test the actual APK, I stay in RFODESIGNER and select "APK". It takes about 40secs on my slow PC to build the APK and then I have the option to send over BT to my actual device or transfer it to Bluestacks 3 (Android emulator) on the PC.

Bluestacks 3 is pretty darn impressive. It really is like having an Android device on the PC screen. Note: you may see Bluestacks 1 being recommended over Bluestacks 2 but this is because the author wasn't aware of Bluestacks 3.

Regards,

Tinine









 
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