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Forum Index : Windmills : testing new shibaura(S!2) permant mag alt

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Tinker

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Joined: 07/11/2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 1904
Posted: 11:02am 29 Aug 2009
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  brucedownunder2 said   Actually , a circular saw with a thin metal cutting blade is safe and excellant for that job . Those very thin metal cutting blades are very dangerous in a angle grinder ,,they tend to break and you can get damaged very quickly ..I have used 2 of them and was very lucky on both occasions that they failed .(wouldn't be at all supprised if they take them off the market)



Cheers
Bruce


Hi Bruce,
I have been using those 1mm metal cutting disks in my 100mm angle grinder for years, never managed to break one during use. Only when I dropped the stationary grinder once did the blade crack so I replaced it.

Perhaps you have to revise your technique using these cutting disks, IMO they are the best thing since sliced bread. Especially for odd project welders like myself, the disk lets me cut a weld and redo it without leaving any trace of this operation.
I do wear a full face shield while cutting and hold the grinder very steady. Twisting the blade in the slot while cutting IS asking it to shatter. In my case its quite impractical to use the disk in a circular saw, anyway, I have a 16" chop saw for cutting stock steel. These are not too expensive and mine paid for itself after the first project.

Re the gearbox of Aaron's motor, watch this space. I am in the process of finding a way to extract the small splined shaft to use with the rotor sans gearbox. I let you know if and how it comes apart
Klaus
 
aaron sa

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Joined: 15/08/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 28
Posted: 09:25pm 29 Aug 2009
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Hi cool bit out my leage pulling that gear box apart, looks press sealed i gess?, pls post pics if u do im qurious to .
The sp star winding was still bit fast for my liking in 1 to 1 ratio .might try a standard wired in delta 10 min job . or the paralel winding on the 6.5 to 1 . but love the easy start up with front seales modified . when it reached cut in it did have a werrrr slight noise but befor silent in 1 to 1 ratio.
I use the thin part of a cable tie to alighn the magnet to coil gap and manover with flat head screwdriver befor tightning the 4 locating bolts
doooo
 
aaron sa

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Joined: 15/08/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 28
Posted: 12:01pm 30 Aug 2009
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hi, put it in standard wiring with star point extended so can delta . but is cuts in in lo wind now and just makes few amps . so now can try the gear box veriations will spin the magnets 6.5 times faster so will use the ampy wire parallel delta this week whan can tinker
doooo
 
grub
Senior Member

Joined: 27/11/2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 169
Posted: 09:53pm 30 Aug 2009
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your gearbox looks like it is off either a Simpson or recent Hoover (both owned by the same company). All the bearings are pressed in. There is a circlip under the 'top' seal (if it was in a washing machine) and another circlip on the base of the top shaft (inside the gearbox). A very common gearbox and can be found in any top suspended Simpson washing machine or pretty well any top load washing machine these days. I have even heard of them being used on a model ride on train.
 
aaron sa

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Joined: 15/08/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 28
Posted: 09:58pm 30 Aug 2009
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cool thanks ,im very curius of internals u got any pics is it planetry gear box. their is stamp on side 2005 so prob newish. will use the gerbox this week in 6.5 to 1 cant weight for results
doooo
 
Tinker

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Joined: 07/11/2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 1904
Posted: 01:13pm 31 Aug 2009
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Here are a couple of pics of the inside of this gearbox. Plastic gear planetary type.


To open it the part that has been peened over on the side of the gearbox was carefully turned off on the lathe. You need one with a chuck big enough to hold the 30mm shaft securely. The large 'ring' in the second pic is the part I turned off. Doing this carefully makes the housing re usable. It could be closed with a few tack welds or some clamping collar.
Its a nice design gear box but perhaps not ideal for wind turbine alternator speed increase. Only the shaft for the rotor has two small ball bearings, the other shaft has sleeve bearings only. There is not a lot of lubrication in the box either, I guess plastic does not need much grease.
I'm sure I find some later use for these gears, what I wanted at the moment is the short rotor shaft.

Klaus
 
aaron sa

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Joined: 15/08/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 28
Posted: 01:34pm 31 Aug 2009
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wow coool thanks yes was out my leag to open then .
doooo
 
aaron sa

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Joined: 15/08/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 28
Posted: 01:48pm 31 Aug 2009
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next thing i qurius about is magnet arangment looks like laminats go to spliens/ shaft. it might be easy neo conversion as in direct drive is less watts than fp but easy start better lo wind peformance . any idear what the tin ring is for on front shaft can the front 30mm shaft come out ?of housing
doooo
 
Tinker

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Joined: 07/11/2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 1904
Posted: 01:57pm 01 Sep 2009
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  aaron sa said   any idear what the tin ring is for on front shaft can the front 30mm shaft come out ?of housing


By "tin ring" I assume you mean the black ring behind the bearing? This appears to be some kind of locking ring for the bearing as the bearing has matching 'notches' for 2 tangs on the ring. Why the bearing needs a locking ring I do not understand, it took on heck of a lot of strain on the bearing puller to get it off - it appears to have been glued (or rusted?) to the shaft.

The 30mm shaft tube is pressed in, I have not yet looked into pressing it out. I would imagine this taking a beefy press to do, mine (home made) does around 15 tons.
Klaus
 
aaron sa

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Joined: 15/08/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 28
Posted: 02:21pm 01 Sep 2009
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cool thanks , havent had time to tinker yet . curius about magnets and if can easy be upgradded to getmore out of in direct drive
doooo
 
aaron sa

Newbie

Joined: 15/08/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 28
Posted: 01:05pm 07 Sep 2009
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I put a test mill up with 6.5 to 1 ratio and the prop im using is to small gess it 2.4m diameter it did turn but was not as good for lo wind as expected and did make a perr sound gess gear chater etc got to see when going at hi speed soon.
realy needs 3 m plus slow talky to get the real advantage of this motor i got told that some types plastic can be strong and that person herd some cars even come out with plastic type cog cool, so may try its strength out on mill .
doooo
 
aaron sa

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Joined: 15/08/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 28
Posted: 06:58am 11 Oct 2009
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Hi I had some time to try a vertical out for fun today, Its constructed from an old evaporative air conditioner barrel fan I put it on the on the shaft and modified the bearing seals to make for easier starting and it is in the direct drive mode and is using the standard wiring. I used a three phase rectifier from an old car alternator it is sitting on a roof near the house and in medium winds today saw 30v at times it is so far a long way behind a horizontal w/m but that is to be expected lot more experimenting to be done here yet.





doooo
 
aaron sa

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Joined: 15/08/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 28
Posted: 09:44pm 27 Dec 2009
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Hi getting a few cheep 4 amp rectafiers to indevialy rectafie the coils , as nooticed a voltage diff between coilles / somthing would like to test on my fps as well as might efect cut in on both types . think they call this jerry riged . i did have some sucsees with 2 blade wind mill with a hevey c chanel hannging off the back off mill body /seperat from ferling tail which stopped it yaring fast and getting the yaw wobble 2 blades normaly get
doooo
 
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