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Forum Index : Windmills : Lumber for blades

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Sonny

Regular Member

Joined: 17/01/2010
Location: United States
Posts: 66
Posted: 04:22pm 18 Feb 2010
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Has anyone used this for their blades? I have a local source for it here and thought because of it's resistance to rot it would make good blade wood.
Cypress Lumber
a complete novice
 
Greenbelt

Guru

Joined: 11/01/2009
Location: United States
Posts: 566
Posted: 02:14am 19 Feb 2010
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Sonny;
I am not familiar with Cypress wood , from what I see on the internet It tends to split easily so I am guessing that cutting across grain to form the airfoil would create a further weakness.
I know about "White Oak, Hickory, and ash, also silver Maple. Axes Shovels, Hammers, Pick's of good quality will use Hickory wood for the handle. silver Maple is straight grained Is flexible and has decent tensile strength. Ash is the old favorite but seems to be expensive and hard to find good quality lumber. Douglas fir could be used, Beware of Hemfir This is Hemlock and it has a very twisted (Spiral) grain pattern that separates easily under stress. I would use Hickory or Maple. The Hickory does not crush when the clamp bolts are tightened.

Time has proven that I am blind to the Obvious, some of the above may be True?
 
Perry

Senior Member

Joined: 19/11/2009
Location:
Posts: 190
Posted: 02:30am 19 Feb 2010
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I may be speaking out my ass but isn't 150-200 yr old cypress over $50 a board ft?

Perry
 
Sonny

Regular Member

Joined: 17/01/2010
Location: United States
Posts: 66
Posted: 03:44am 19 Feb 2010
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Thanks for the information Greenbelt.
Perry it may well be but I can get it from a local guy here and it not near that old. I just used that web site to show what I was talking about, sorry if you misunderstood.
a complete novice
 
Sonny

Regular Member

Joined: 17/01/2010
Location: United States
Posts: 66
Posted: 04:37am 19 Feb 2010
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Why Cypress?
We use cypress (Taxodium distichum) for our products because it has a moderate-high resistance to decay and insects, is easily worked, and takes paints and stains well. Its beautiful, fine grain looks great in formal or casual settings. When freshly milled, cypress has a blonde color; once a clear varnish or stain is applied, it glows to a deep honey color and any color paint or colored stain can be used as well. The natural protective oil (cypressene) found in cypress give it an aromatic smell that never fades. Click here to read what the USDA Forest Research Service says about it.

Cypress readily takes clear sealants, stains or paints. It can also be left natural and it will take on a beautiful antique gray. The USDA Forest Products Laboratory has some great wood finishing articles: (You must have Adobe Reader to view them; click here to: Get Adobe Reader)

"Selection and Application of Exterior Stains for Wood" (11 pages)
"Finishing of Wood" (38 pages)
"Finishes for Wood Decks" (2 pages)
Cypress Technical Information
Specific Gravity (>12% moisture content): .46
Density (lbs./ft.3): 31.4
Static Bending (Dry Lumber)

modulus of rupture (lbs./in.2): 10,600
modulus of elasticity (million psi): 1.44
work to maximum load (in.-lbs./ft.3): 8.2
Impact Bending (Dry Lumber)

height of drop causing complete failure (in.): 24
Compression Parallel to Grain (Dry Lumber)

maximum crushing strength (lbs./in.2): 6,360
Compression Perpendicular to Grain (Dry Lumber)

fiber stress at proportional limit (lbs./in.2): 730
Tension Perpendicular to Grain (Dry Lumber)

maximum tensile strength (lbs./in.2): 270
Shear Parallel to Grain (Dry Lumber)

maximum shearing strength (lbs./in.2): 1000
Side Hardness

load required to embed a .444 ball to 1/2 diameter (lbs.): 510
Flame Spread Rating: 145-150

a complete novice
 
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