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Forum Index : Windmills : cutting out the F&P bearing block
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KarlJ Guru  Joined: 19/05/2008 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1178 |
Guys I noticed on the homepage dismantling of the machine doesnt cover removing the bearing block. the NZ boys tell me the chainsaw is not a good idea and a hacksaw doesnt have the throat to deal with whats left if an angle grinder is used but a plain wood saw cut through it like butter. Obviously fillm is using this bearing block and now its proven and cheap may want to add this as like others, I threw it away considering it was too hard and I wouldnt need it. All up 5 mins.... can even be done on the nature strip as previous owner looks on in horror! still less obtrusive than a chainsaw being used to carve up their old machine. band aid on the thumb is unrelated! Karl 
Luck favours the well prepared |
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| grub Senior Member  Joined: 27/11/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 169 |
I use an electric chain saw. Some of the strengthening "spars" snap and crack but I make sure that I cut far enough away from the core so as not to damage the plastic. I tried a hole saw and hand saw, too slow. I tried a sabre saw too, but for sheer speed the chain saw was best. It just has a problem with plastic swarf so broom is also needed. |
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AMACK Senior Member Joined: 31/05/2009 Location: AustraliaPosts: 184 |
I too use a chainsaw and have not had any truble with it. The first attempt I used a bit of 100X100 mm Box section steel that I heated and used a hydrolic press to apply presure as I heated it. It sounded good at the time but did not work well. My aim was to make a tight fit and have it welded or melted in place at the same time. Did not work...  *Note to self 1. Make it thick 2.Make it heavy. 3.Make it stronger than it should be. 4. Don't rush the first job as the second job will cost more and take mor |
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| turnymf Regular Member  Joined: 04/10/2008 Location: AustraliaPosts: 84 |
Anyone else here tried a axe Sounds rough but it takes out the centre quickly Still needs finer work of course If at the tip, I smash out the plastic around the two top screws to lift the lid away, remove the agitator and bowl Flip it upside down and remove hub and stator rip out the tub, turn tub upside down and start swinging Six or seven hits and it's out |
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| Barry T Coles Senior Member Joined: 30/07/2009 Location: AustraliaPosts: 109 |
Try this link, theres a couple there. Cheers Barry http://www.thebackshed.com/windmill/FORUM1/forum_posts.asp?T ID=2178&PN=1 I need to learn from the mistakes of others. I dont have the time to make them all myself. |
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| KarlJ Guru Joined: 19/05/2008 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1178 |
An axe! what a BUTCHER!!!! I tried the chainsaw and was less than impressed, got the feeling on a few occasions I was going to chop off my legs. Phill sent me a pic of his hole saw, said he didn't have the heart to post it after I showed my effort which involves Yakka.. 
I do like the idea of the hole saw but for the tip, the axe is the go! Luck favours the well prepared |
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GlennS Newbie  Joined: 25/01/2010 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1 |
The handsaw method works a treat. When the plastic bearing block is cut out, you can use an electric planer to clean it up to a nice smooth and straight finish on each side. The planer seems to cut the plastic easier than wood. Cheers, Glenn. |
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| KarlJ Guru Joined: 19/05/2008 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1178 |
I picked up a few more today for some exercise, certainly keeps you fit. Luck favours the well prepared |
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Trev Guru Joined: 15/07/2006 Location: AustraliaPosts: 676 |
I have used the drill, plenty of holes beside each other and ground the end of a hacksaw blade to fit into my jigsaw. I have used an axe but when I heard that someone used the chainsaw, well that did it for me, I use the chainsaw. Of course, I don't use the plastic bearing block, I just have a couple under the bench. Dwyer takes them out with a hot steel pipe. Heats the steel pipe in the fire and drops it on the plastic and it falls out. Trev @ drivebynature.com |
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