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cobo351
Newbie
Joined: 18/12/2009
Location: United StatesPosts: 34 |
| Posted: 01:38am 25 Jan 2010 |
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After much work building my turbine and tower components. While attempting to raise my wind turbine a support gave away sending it crashing back down. I now pretty much need to start over. |
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Perry
Senior Member
Joined: 19/11/2009
Location: Posts: 190 |
| Posted: 02:33am 25 Jan 2010 |
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Sorry man. How big was it?
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KarlJ
Guru
Joined: 19/05/2008
Location: AustraliaPosts: 1178 |
| Posted: 09:19am 25 Jan 2010 |
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Bugger, did you capture some pics?
Do tell more as can be a learning experience for others..
you're not the first and certainly wont be the last.
I recall reading on otherpower they had a fully completed mill destroyed as they forgot to tighten the cable clams on a guy rope.....heartbreaking.
Tower in my opinion is more important and more costly than the mill itself, there is no point cutting any corners here.
Steel and concrete in good measure are great tools to beat the mighty power of the wind....which yours never got to see...  Edited by KarlJ 2010-01-26
Luck favours the well prepared |
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cobo351
Newbie
Joined: 18/12/2009
Location: United StatesPosts: 34 |
| Posted: 03:05am 26 Jan 2010 |
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My wind turbine uses a good size servomotor, frame, tail fin, and blades. The assembly was to be mounted temporarily until spring on top of a 20 foot 2 inch steel pipe. I was raising it to mount to the back of my garage wall. Using my truck, and snowplow with supports on each side and pushing it into the raised position. It was just about all the way up when one of the side supports let go and sent it falling to the other side. The blades are ruined not that big of a deal I have material to make more. The most disappointing is that the shaft on the end of the servomotor was bent slightly. I really need to try to straighten it. As buying another is not in my budget right now. If anyone has any ideas to give me regarding a good way to go about doing this, I could use the ideas. I was too disappointed to take any pictures of the aftermath. But I have learned something and will try again. |
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KarlJ
Guru
Joined: 19/05/2008
Location: AustraliaPosts: 1178 |
| Posted: 05:10am 26 Jan 2010 |
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Big hammer, you'll find the shaft is probably pretty soft.
Luck favours the well prepared |
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isaiah
Guru
Joined: 25/12/2009
Location: United StatesPosts: 303 |
| Posted: 09:29am 26 Jan 2010 |
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cobo351.
1) With the bent shaft you have three options take the motor apart and if you know some one that has and knows how to use it a arbor press they may be able to straighten it.
This would have to be done with v blocks and indicators. You don't want any run out as a very little on the shaft will be multiplied Times the length of the blades times 2. and will vibrate in hi winds.
2) Depending how bad it bent you could take it to someone with a lathe and turn it straight then sleeve it back to original size.
3) Depending on the motor you might get a whole new shaft made.
Any of the 3 would be cheaper than a new motor.
Hope I didn't confuse you and this info helps.
Last resort get Karl's Hammer
URL=http://www.motherearthnews.com/Renewable-Energy/1973-11- 01/The-Plowboy-Interview.aspx>The Plowboy Interview[/URL> |
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Joblow
Regular Member
Joined: 05/01/2010
Location: AustraliaPosts: 54 |
| Posted: 02:41pm 26 Jan 2010 |
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Hi Cobo,
It largely depends upon where the shaft is bent, the closer to one end it is the more difficult it will be to straighten, if you have a press and Vee blocks it is relatively easy, but without, the following may be acceptable: first find the centre of the bend and mark the shaft approximately – shaft diameter x 3 – either side of the bend (ie if shaft 25mm dia. Mark 75mm either side of bend centre) place shaft on a flat solid steel surface (bench) with the marks resting on two pieces of flat bar or similar, then place another piece of thinner flat bar under the centre of the bend which will leave clearance when the bend is rotated so that it is at it’s lowest point, with feeler gauges measure the distance between the shaft and the flat bar and record the measurement, next take a measurement with the bar rotated so that the bend is uppermost, by calculating the difference in the two measurements this will give you an indication of the overall deformity. Leave the flat bars on the (bench) and use another two flat bars or similar on another solid surface (same ratio as above) with thin cushioning (approx 3mm leather, nylon, polyethylene etc) between the flat bars and shaft. With the bend uppermost and another piece of cushioning on it, take a hammer ( use your own discretion as to how big and how hard to hit) and strike the shaft, then return the shaft to the original flat bar assembly and measure again. Repeat as necessary until symptoms are alleviated.
As a rule I would expect this method to enable you to get about 0.1 mm (4 thou) runout in a shaft of around 25mm (1")
The man who never made a mistake never made anything |
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Dupa
Newbie
Joined: 09/12/2009
Location: United StatesPosts: 27 |
| Posted: 03:42pm 26 Jan 2010 |
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Hey Cobo
Bring it over and I can take it to work and fix it for ya. I can either tweek it in a press and get it within .010" runout or turn it in a lathe a bring it back to 0 but you would need to compensate your mount to the shaft or I can turn you a new one.
Let me know.
I is a injenear |
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cobo351
Newbie
Joined: 18/12/2009
Location: United StatesPosts: 34 |
| Posted: 02:57am 27 Jan 2010 |
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Thanks Dupa, I will take you up on that. Tweaking it in a press will probably get it close enough but I’ll talk to you more about that after you look at it. I will bring it by tomorrow.
Cory
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cobo351
Newbie
Joined: 18/12/2009
Location: United StatesPosts: 34 |
| Posted: 03:22am 27 Jan 2010 |
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Thanks Guys, the BFH method has crossed my mind since I don’t have a press. I’m glad Dupa volunteered to help get me spinning again. |
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