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Forum Index : Electronics : Inverter building using Wiseguys Power board and the Nano drive board
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KeepIS Guru  Joined: 13/10/2014 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2227 |
Remember this part of the New WG inverter build thread is for those builders new to electronics and inverter building. Below: Some of the the FET hardware, like the bolt and white "top / shaft" insulator washers that we use here to centre the FET body correctly over the PCB while soldering.  Below: Try to have a gentle bend in the FET Legs, instead of a right angle, there are proven reasons to do this. I will not be discussing those here, look it up!!  Below: A view of the White insulating (locating as well) washer on one side of the FET.  Below: The washer on the other side of the PCB.  Below: Ready to solder, gate lead will be trimmed neatly later, flip the board over and start soldering the TOP side of the board first. I mount 4 FETS at a time as they share a common copper track, and soldering four FETS in close proximity helps heats the wide track, when the TOP is done, flip the board over and finish the Bottom. Someone asked how long it took to heat the solder pad for the first leg, I was incorrect, it only takes 4 seconds to have the solder flow over the pad and migrate down the FET leg through the board, each one is progressively faster as the whole track heats. If you are doing this in a freezing room, use a heat gun to GENTLY heat the board first, I did not and it's 19°c in the room. As stated earlier, solder the FET leads on the TOP of the PCB first, flat tip on the pad first, when solder flows on the pad, move the tip against the FET lead for a second or two as you feed a little solder, this normally flows through to the pad on the other side, once you get used to it's very quick to solder each leg.  Edited 2026-08-08 16:14 by KeepIS NANO:Inverter V 8.4ks - Linux AvrDude GUI script V4.1 |
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| analog8484 Senior Member  Joined: 11/11/2021 Location: United StatesPosts: 208 |
Thanks for the tips. Interesting ... I always soldered the underside first  Also, I must admit I never tried 480C because that's the limit of my 70W iron and it became uncomfortably warm to hold even at 380C after more than a few minutes. Edited 2026-08-09 02:41 by analog8484 |
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| KeepIS Guru Joined: 13/10/2014 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2227 |
I use a HACO, slim iron and handle, absolutely zero heat in the handle. Heat transfer into the FET body through the Via and FET leads is minimal when soldered from the TOP first, especially if you focus on the Via PAD, when the solder flows, it obviously heats the FET lead, however the heat on the FET Body connection on the bottom of the board is still relatively cool, the real heat transfer happens when you solder the bottom side of the board. I now solder one lead on each of the four FETs I fit, then go back and do the other lead, minimising heat transfer into each FET, then flip the board, by this time the bottom side of the board is quite warm, repeat the one lead at a time solder finish off on the 4 FETS, again trying to focus on only heating the PAD without the TIP pressing against the Lead. I'm sure you and other forum members are aware of the following, but I'll post this for newer builders. I'm also sure other forum Tec members have their own method, but again, I'm just trying to keep this simple and low cost for new builders. Two very important points. 1: the correct "clean" tip, 2: using Tip Tinner or similar product. I give the Tip a gently quick wipe on a damp solder sponge, then touch the TIP on the Tip Tinner, the Tip remains bright and clean, the heat transfer is a "WORLD of Difference" compared to not doing something like this, and especially so with high Tip temperatures. NANO:Inverter V 8.4ks - Linux AvrDude GUI script V4.1 |
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| KeepIS Guru Joined: 13/10/2014 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2227 |
A Gate resistor, there is one on each FET, this is straight after fitting the FET, no board cleanup, and later a drop of silicone rubber will keep the ferrite Bead close to the body and stop it moving around.  Below: The difference between the old and new Power board, it looks quite small with the Test Cap boards fitted, I tested both new power boards this morning, and both worked perfectly.  NANO:Inverter V 8.4ks - Linux AvrDude GUI script V4.1 |
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| analog8484 Senior Member Joined: 11/11/2021 Location: United StatesPosts: 208 |
Not familiar with HACO. Is that an Australian brand? I do know Hakko from Japan which has very good reputation. |
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| KeepIS Guru Joined: 13/10/2014 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2227 |
I should put my glasses on before I look across the room and type: Hakko it is. The Controller board is next on the list, this PCB is almost unchanged from the previous PCB, but I'll still post a close up of the slightly revised PCB with all components fitted. Then, I will finally get to building the new Current trip supervisor PCB that WG kindly took time to design the PCB & Gerber for us. I have a mate coming over today to map the dimensions and hole locations for making sets of aluminium Heat sink bars, these interface between the FETS and what ever LARGE finned heatsink we find in the scrap heaps, fortunately I have another two spare finned heatsinks from old Grid tie Inverters. He has a large CNC that can churn these our with precision in no time at all, we'll make a 3mm thick test bar to confirm it's correct, then we will go with something like 12mm for the production run, as he likes to call it. My friend is very keen and motivated as he is about to start building a couple of these Inverters Dual or Quad, as he is sick of repairing the big Commercial Inverters he uses, they are an absolute pain to dissemble and work on, I've helped him repair a few, just horrid, no circuits, model changes every year, little or no info, you know the story. NANO:Inverter V 8.4ks - Linux AvrDude GUI script V4.1 |
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| KeepIS Guru Joined: 13/10/2014 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2227 |
Here is slightly better picture of the two gate drive boards, showing the top and bottom, layout, once again, notice that the right-angle pin sets are are mounted on different sides of each board. As both boards are identical, simply make sure that one board has the pin-set pushed through from the top, and the other from the bottom. Excuse my poor attempt of soldering SMD, the problem is, as you get older your hands decide to have a mind of their own, right at the last moment of placement, or when trying to hold a part the size of a flea, and jumps like one if you look sideways. Although I do have a special hot air solder gun for occasional SMD stuff, I am not set up for SMD work, and I have no intention of spending any money on it for the little I do, but with these tiny boards it was easier for me to just use solder paste and a tiny solder tip. BTW despite C3 being skewed, I decided to leave it, it was physically fine the way it was, and like the other 2 sets of boards, these also worked perfectly the first time.  NANO:Inverter V 8.4ks - Linux AvrDude GUI script V4.1 |
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