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Forum Index : Electronics : Inverter building using Wiseguys Power board and the Nano drive board
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KeepIS Guru  Joined: 13/10/2014 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2225 |
Remember this part of the New WG inverter build thread is for those builders new to electronics and inverter building. Below: Some of the the FET hardware, like the bolt and white "top / shaft" insulator washers that we use here to centre the FET body correctly over the PCB while soldering.  Below: Try to have a gentle bend in the FET Legs, instead of a right angle, there are proven reasons to do this. I will not be discussing those here, look it up!!  Below: A view of the White insulating (locating as well) washer on one side of the FET.  Below: The washer on the other side of the PCB.  Below: Ready to solder, gate lead will be trimmed neatly later, flip the board over and start soldering the TOP side of the board first. I mount 4 FETS at a time as they share a common copper track, and soldering four FETS in close proximity helps heats the wide track, when the TOP is done, flip the board over and finish the Bottom. Someone asked how long it took to heat the solder pad for the first leg, I was incorrect, it only takes 4 seconds to have the solder flow over the pad and migrate down the FET leg through the board, each one is progressively faster as the whole track heats. If you are doing this in a freezing room, use a heat gun to GENTLY heat the board first, I did not and it's 19°c in the room. As stated earlier, solder the FET leads on the TOP of the PCB first, flat tip on the pad first, when solder flows on the pad, move the tip against the FET lead for a second or two as you feed a little solder, this normally flows through to the pad on the other side, once you get used to it's very quick to solder each leg.  Edited 2026-08-08 16:14 by KeepIS NANO:Inverter V 8.4ks - Linux AvrDude GUI script V4.1 |
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| analog8484 Senior Member  Joined: 11/11/2021 Location: United StatesPosts: 208 |
Thanks for the tips. Interesting ... I always soldered the underside first  Also, I must admit I never tried 480C because that's the limit of my 70W iron and it became uncomfortably warm to hold even at 380C after more than a few minutes. Edited 2026-08-09 02:41 by analog8484 |
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| KeepIS Guru Joined: 13/10/2014 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2225 |
I use a HACO, slim iron and handle, absolutely zero heat in the handle. Heat transfer into the FET body through the Via and FET leads is minimal when soldered from the TOP first, especially if you focus on the Via PAD, when the solder flows, it obviously heats the FET lead, however the heat on the FET Body connection on the bottom of the board is still relatively cool, the real heat transfer happens when you solder the bottom side of the board. I now solder one lead on each of the four FETs I fit, then go back and do the other lead, minimising heat transfer into each FET, then flip the board, by this time the bottom side of the board is quite warm, repeat the one lead at a time solder finish off on the 4 FETS, again trying to focus on only heating the PAD without the TIP pressing against the Lead. I'm sure you and other forum members are aware of the following, but I'll post this for newer builders. I'm also sure other forum Tec members have their own method, but again, I'm just trying to keep this simple and low cost for new builders. Two very important points. 1: the correct "clean" tip, 2: using Tip Tinner or similar product. I give the Tip a gently quick wipe on a damp solder sponge, then touch the TIP on the Tip Tinner, the Tip remains bright and clean, the heat transfer is a "WORLD of Difference" compared to not doing something like this, and especially so with high Tip temperatures. NANO:Inverter V 8.4ks - Linux AvrDude GUI script V4.1 |
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| KeepIS Guru Joined: 13/10/2014 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2225 |
A Gate resistor, there is one on each FET, this is straight after fitting the FET, no board cleanup, and later a drop of silicone rubber will keep the ferrite Bead close to the body and stop it moving around.  Below: The difference between the old and new Power board, it looks quite small with the Test Cap boards fitted, I tested both new power boards this morning, and both worked perfectly.  NANO:Inverter V 8.4ks - Linux AvrDude GUI script V4.1 |
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| analog8484 Senior Member Joined: 11/11/2021 Location: United StatesPosts: 208 |
Not familiar with HACO. Is that an Australian brand? I do know Hakko from Japan which has very good reputation. |
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| Page 37 of 37 |
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