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Forum Index : Electronics : Homemade charge controllers

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Archinaut

Newbie

Joined: 11/12/2008
Location: United States
Posts: 3
Posted: 12:01am 11 Dec 2008
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Please excuse the noob question. But I never realized how easy it was to get in to DIY sustainable energy. I'm an architectural designer with about 7 years professional experience and I plan on doing my part to contribute my expertise in exchange for some help of my own.

I'm building a small wind turbine system before I try to undertake a larger turbine project.

MY question is:
How well to charge controller scale? For instance if I build one for my small project, when will I need an upgrade?

My project:
I bought a 140 cont. 400 surge inverter off ebay for $2 (good buy I think).

I plan on starting with one 12v deep cycle battery.

I need a charge controller but as I scale up I don't want to have to keep buying stuff I may not need to if I properly prepare.

I'd like to build a controller if possible that fits my plans. But I'm not sure if the diagrams I found will work for larger systems.

I appreciate any help.
-Michael
 
GWatPE

Senior Member

Joined: 01/09/2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 2127
Posted: 02:46am 11 Dec 2008
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Hi Archinaut,

The charge controller/diversion load is usually matched to the maximum source power. Grid connect inverters do allow dynamic control over a wide power input range, but would require a backup. PWM type controllers perform a similar function, but usually have a resistive dump.

The 12V system you plan on starting with, would not require an expensive diversion load. There are many examples of how others have gone about this on this site. There are examples on how to calculate the size of the required diversion load.

Gordon.
become more energy aware
 
Archinaut

Newbie

Joined: 11/12/2008
Location: United States
Posts: 3
Posted: 02:07pm 11 Dec 2008
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  GWatPE said   Hi Archinaut,

The charge controller/diversion load is usually matched to the maximum source power. Grid connect inverters do allow dynamic control over a wide power input range, but would require a backup. PWM type controllers perform a similar function, but usually have a resistive dump.

The 12V system you plan on starting with, would not require an expensive diversion load. There are many examples of how others have gone about this on this site. There are examples on how to calculate the size of the required diversion load.

Gordon.


To be clear you are talking about an internal dummy load correct?

How large of a load will a resistive dump manage?

I'd like to get a controller than will work for this set up and a larger one when I upgrade.

thanks for the help.
-Michael
 
Archinaut

Newbie

Joined: 11/12/2008
Location: United States
Posts: 3
Posted: 04:15pm 11 Dec 2008
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I found this.



It looks cheap to build and I think it would do the job atleast for a while.

Thoughts?
-Michael
 
GWatPE

Senior Member

Joined: 01/09/2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 2127
Posted: 10:33pm 11 Dec 2008
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I would rate F1 for the wiring, and not the max load current, if a windmill is in the system. You don't want the fuse to blow and have the windmill not loaded at all. If you control with a separate rectifier, I would only fuse the battery lead.

The resistance presents a different loading depending on the system voltage.

A 12V system you describe is OK for small power levels, up to 600-800W max. A useful power rated system for a home would be minimum 24V, but preferably 48V. Any controller would need to be adaptable, if it was intended to be used for an expanding power demand.

Gordon.
become more energy aware
 
readyakira

Senior Member

Joined: 17/07/2008
Location: United States
Posts: 114
Posted: 01:28pm 13 Dec 2008
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hey arch, can you do silk screening to make the pcb? if so and this works I would be interested in buying a couple boards from ya for my projects.
Don't you think Free/Renewable energy should be mandatory in new buildings?
 
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