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Forum Index : Microcontroller and PC projects : HC-12 Tester/Programmer PCB 1A...
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Grogster![]() Admin Group ![]() Joined: 31/12/2012 Location: New ZealandPosts: 9498 |
So many good ideas coming being posted here. We might have to have a poll to work out which one to use!!!! ![]() I do like Quazee137's one above. EDIT: @ Azure - Yes, that is also my thoughts. 3D printers are getting cheaper all the time. Perhaps sometime soon I will shell out for one. Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops! |
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CaptainBoing![]() Guru ![]() Joined: 07/09/2016 Location: United KingdomPosts: 2141 |
Toggle Clamp. really like that, fast to use too |
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Andrew_G Guru ![]() Joined: 18/10/2016 Location: AustraliaPosts: 868 |
Hi Grogs, I've got 5 more HC-12s on the way (plus 2 USB ones). Are you selling the PCB/Kit/Pogo pins? (I would use my own brick to hold 'em down). More seriously, if the 5 pin header at the top of the HC-12 had a protrusion you could place the board under it and lower it down to the bottom pins. Then you would only need a smaller clip (or brick) at the bottom. Cheers, Andrew |
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Chopperp![]() Guru ![]() Joined: 03/01/2018 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1090 |
Hi Andrew, Where did you end up ordering the standard HC-12's from. Thanks ChopperP |
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Grogster![]() Admin Group ![]() Joined: 31/12/2012 Location: New ZealandPosts: 9498 |
@ Andrew_G - Not selling kits on the website, but I can put it up if you are interested. Give me a day or two. Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops! |
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Phil23 Guru ![]() Joined: 27/03/2016 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1667 |
![]() I'd try something like this from a spring steel clip a bit like they use on some heat sinks, but with the catching edges facing outwards, so you can squeeze them in to get them down the slots & then squeeze again to release them. bit like these, but with some insulating material below. Legs are wrong above, would need to be folded 90° outwards & have just enough width the fit down the slots. Phil. |
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Grogster![]() Admin Group ![]() Joined: 31/12/2012 Location: New ZealandPosts: 9498 |
It's up on my website here. Currently only listed as a full-kit, but I plan to add just the blank PCB tomorrow, so if that is what you are really after, just wait till tomorrow. ![]() Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops! |
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Andrew_G Guru ![]() Joined: 18/10/2016 Location: AustraliaPosts: 868 |
Hi Grogs, I'll order one full kit tomorrow, cheers, Andrew |
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Andrew_G Guru ![]() Joined: 18/10/2016 Location: AustraliaPosts: 868 |
1) Grogster - just ordered a kit 2) Chopper - sorry I lost track of your question (iPad late at night). I bought a couple of batches ages ago from Banggood - they have been great. Given Grogster's concerns about "fake" units I went for the same this time round: Here At least I might have all fakes or all genuine?? Cheers, Andrew |
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Chopperp![]() Guru ![]() Joined: 03/01/2018 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1090 |
Thanks Andrew. They have this note so they could be fakes ( ![]() Note: HC-11 cannot communicate with the HC-12, they work independently, in pairs ChopperP |
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Andrew_G Guru ![]() Joined: 18/10/2016 Location: AustraliaPosts: 868 |
Hi Chopper, I think/hope that in the back of my mind it is more to do with the 11 being superseded by the 12 and that they are not backward compatible. Andrew |
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Chopperp![]() Guru ![]() Joined: 03/01/2018 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1090 |
OK, could be right. ChopperP |
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Grogster![]() Admin Group ![]() Joined: 31/12/2012 Location: New ZealandPosts: 9498 |
@ Andrew_G - Your kit will be sent today. ![]() The HC11 is not compatible with the HC12, and the HC12 is not backwards compatible from what I have been able to read on the subject. You are PROBABLY safest buying from the same seller you have had a good run from before. That is not to say that they might start selling the fakes also, as they won't know themselves probably! I myself have bought five from the store I always used to buy them from, and if they seem OK, I will buy another ten. I had bought two batches of FIFTY from this seller before, and they were all genuine ones. The trouble is that you never know when the fakes will turn up, as unless the sellers get their modules directly from the manufacturer....... I have asked a few sellers if they do. Most did not reply at all, and the ones that did, were asking: 'What's your problem?', so they don't understand the question as asked anyway. ![]() Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops! |
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Andrew_G Guru ![]() Joined: 18/10/2016 Location: AustraliaPosts: 868 |
Thanks Grogs. I'm most impressed with the turnaround. Cheers, Andrew |
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CaptainBoing![]() Guru ![]() Joined: 07/09/2016 Location: United KingdomPosts: 2141 |
+1 Andrew_G |
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Andrew_G Guru ![]() Joined: 18/10/2016 Location: AustraliaPosts: 868 |
Hi Grogs, Re the suggestion on the other thread of hooking up a MM to help the testing can you let me know of anything I need to do/not do before I assemble the kit you have just sent me - thanks (I can't think of anything given you have done all the SMD work already). From my (limited) thinking it could be as easy as disconnecting your USB power supply and using the 5 pin female header to connect to a MM running some sort of clever test routine? (The next version might have a three pin jumper (or even a different On/OFF/On switch) to select power from your USB OR the 5-pin header??) Cheers, A |
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Grogster![]() Admin Group ![]() Joined: 31/12/2012 Location: New ZealandPosts: 9498 |
Nothing springs to mind. Instructions are included with the kit. As designed, the board assumes you will connect to the VCP with something like TeraTerm or GFXterm, and just press a key. As soon as you do that, the HC12 will transmit the received keystrokes. That's how I have been doing it. If I did a new version of that board, I cold include a MM2 and a button to send data to the HC12 to make is self-contained as mentioned. I am not sure if it is worth that effort though, as with a USB connection, you can do the same thing. Perhaps REMOVE the USB connection for a new version of the PCB, and replace with a MM2 chip. ![]() EDIT: The main reason for having the USB serial connection, is so that you can program an HC12 module as well as being able to test it. Programming can be done via the MM2, but you need a serial connection to the console for that anyway, so..... Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops! |
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Andrew_G Guru ![]() Joined: 18/10/2016 Location: AustraliaPosts: 868 |
Thanks Grogs. I guess I should start looking for a brick to hold down the modules. Cheers, Andrew |
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Grogster![]() Admin Group ![]() Joined: 31/12/2012 Location: New ZealandPosts: 9498 |
This weekend, I am going to try Mick's(bigmik) idea of using two of those strong magnets from an old hard-drive. I am reasonably confident that this method will work, and it is simple. Will keep the thread posted. Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops! |
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Andrew_G Guru ![]() Joined: 18/10/2016 Location: AustraliaPosts: 868 |
Hi Grogs, your Tester Kit arrived this morning (I guess sitting around in an Aus Post bag for the weekend). Not bad - less than a week from order to receipt. I looks really well set out and your SMD soldering is great. Your instructions are clear and I should be up and running as soon as I have cleared some domestic duties. Cheers, Andrew |
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