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Forum Index : Microcontroller and PC projects : MM programmer/debugger 1A...

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Grogster

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Posted: 03:33am 12 Jun 2018
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I like the way you think, CG. As soon as I read your first post on this, it made me think, and I have rustled up a preliminary 1C:







This uses a 6x2(assuming you can get such a thing), and has standard ICSP on one side, and console on the other. Console side has 3v3, 5v and ground connections so you can tap into the USB 5v, or the 1703 regulator's 3v3 output.

EDIT: Of course you can get 6x2's..... Edited by Grogster 2018-06-13
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erbp
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Posted: 07:44am 12 Jun 2018
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+1 for the 1C version, especially the pin arrangement.

If I had one of these I would block off the GND pin socket hole next to the 3v3 pin on the Console side of the board. Then for any boards / devices that I wanted to be able to use this with I would remove the corresponding pin on the 2 x 6 male connector - presto, you can only plug it in one way and you still have all signals and voltages available. Brilliant!!
 
Azure

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Posted: 08:22am 12 Jun 2018
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Putting in a key pin (blocking a socket pin and removing a header pin) is a great suggestion to stop accidentally connecting it the wrong way around.
 
Grogster

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Posted: 08:25am 12 Jun 2018
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Sounds good to me. Any other suggestions? I will order sometime this week.
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CircuitGizmos

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Posted: 03:55pm 12 Jun 2018
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  erbp said   +1 for the 1C version, especially the pin arrangement.

If I had one of these I would block off the GND pin socket hole next to the 3v3 pin on the Console side of the board. Then for any boards / devices that I wanted to be able to use this with I would remove the corresponding pin on the 2 x 6 male connector - presto, you can only plug it in one way and you still have all signals and voltages available. Brilliant!!



Great idea. In my experience, a corner pin is easiest. perhaps the one labeled 3.3 could be moved down one position. Corner pin labeled 'key' in that case.
Micromites and Maximites! - Beginning Maximite
 
Grogster

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Posted: 09:30pm 12 Jun 2018
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Cutting the pin of the male header on the PCB is easy(or install a 5p header there), but does anyone know where you can get the little filler things that you can put in the female header thing, to block that pin hole?

Here is the new version:







This PCB is 43.6mm x 15.0mm in size - small.
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TassyJim

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Posted: 10:48pm 12 Jun 2018
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  Grogster said   but does anyone know where you can get the little filler things that you can put in the female header thing, to block that pin hole?


Match stick.

You will have to whittle it down a bit but they do stay there once in.

Jim
VK7JH
MMedit
 
Azure

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Posted: 11:33pm 12 Jun 2018
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Here is one They are generally referred to as
Keying Plug
 
bigmik

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Posted: 02:51am 13 Jun 2018
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Hi Grogs,

Just pop in a loose metal pin from a scrap bit of a MALE header..

Works well


Regards,

Mick


Mick's uMite Stuff can be found >>> HERE (Kindly hosted by Dontronics) <<<
 
CircuitGizmos

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Posted: 02:59am 13 Jun 2018
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A coworker used gel superglue. I've done that and after it cured I dabbed a spot of yellow paint (from a paint pen) on top. Makes it nice to see if the connector is black.
Micromites and Maximites! - Beginning Maximite
 
erbp
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Posted: 06:32am 13 Jun 2018
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After a bit more thought I have one more suggestion on this topic. I would very much like to see the 3v3 connection on the ICSP side of the connector controlled via a jumper. This was also previously suggested by CircuitGizmos. I would be happy with just a 2 way header so that the 3v3 can be connected if the header pins are shorted, or left disconnect when they are not (the earlier suggestion was for a 3-way header so that you could select 3v3 or 5v or no connection - I don't need that level of complexity but others may).

This would allow easy disconnection of power to the device from this module if the device is using its own external power supply (like a 5" LCD backpack which may overtax the 3v3 regulator on the debugger/programmer module) or supplying 3v3 to the device under test if that is required. It just adds another level of flexibility making this module even more useful.

P.S. thanks for the mod to provide a key pin.

Cheers,
Phil.
 
Grogster

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Posted: 09:35pm 13 Jun 2018
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On projects that don't want the 3v3, how about just not install that pin on the board so the 3v3 from the female header would never be connected to the PCB? Exactly the same idea as the KEY pin, but for the 3v3 pin. The key pin would still prevent you from putting the thing on the PCB the wrong way around. Thoughts?


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erbp
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Posted: 11:29pm 13 Jun 2018
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I guess I could live that that as a solution, however my preference would be for the option to power / not-power the device under test to be available, but if it's not something others want then ok.

However I believe there is a wiring issue with the 1C board. The ground end of the power LED series resistor is no longer connected to ground! Check the left end of the 4K7 resistor just above the word CONSOLE in the lower image above. It connects to a small area of "ground plane" copper, but that no longer has a connection to ground as it was severed by the 3v3 track relocation when you moved the 3v3 pin down one position.

Cheers,
Phil.
 
robert.rozee
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Posted: 01:00am 14 Jun 2018
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my personal preference would be a small slide switch to connect/disconnect the 3v3. something like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm//183147427235
you could place the pads for both this and a 0.1" 2-pin header, with those who want 3v3 permanently connected just soldering in a link.

personally, i'd also prefer the SOIC version of the 1455, much easier to solder for the beginner, and only a little bigger.

have you looked at what cases are available that the PCB could drop into? combined with a tidy looking case this could be a marketable PICKIT3 alternative for those just interested in programming PIC32 devices.


cheers,
rob :-)Edited by robert.rozee 2018-06-15
 
Grogster

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Posted: 01:09am 14 Jun 2018
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@ erbp - I will look into this. Yes, the LED has no ground reference in the above photos. That has been corrected.

@ Rob - SOIC is too big to fit in the current layout, however, I will have a play with the layout and move things around a little and see if that can be made to work - you were right last time. (the E28) The SIL switch is a neat idea. I will play with the layout. No idea on case. I was never planning to case it.
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Grogster

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Posted: 01:19am 14 Jun 2018
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The 1455 is happy running at 5v. Why don't we just drop the 3v3 regulator completely?
If you are going to be using this thing, you are most likely going to be plugging it into a finished PCB which will have it's own on-board regulation anyway. Thoughts?
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robert.rozee
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Posted: 01:39am 14 Jun 2018
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that may not work so well, as both the ICSP and serial pins may/would then be driven at 5v, not 3v3. this may cause issues that at the least require series resistors to be added.

the arduino nano solution (a 5v part) got around this by using open-collector outputs with pullups to a crude 3v3 regulator. the 1455 doesn't use external pullups, i'm pretty dure it drives pins both low AND high directly.


cheers,
rob :-)
 
Grogster

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Posted: 01:54am 14 Jun 2018
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Acknowledged. Back to the original layout shuffle then.

I might swap the SOT-223 regulator for a SOT-89 version of the same, as it is smaller and gives me a few more mm to work with.
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erbp
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Posted: 02:13am 14 Jun 2018
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I wouldn't think it a problem if you increased the length of the board by a few mm (even out to 50mm) if that helps fit everything on. Obviously it would be desirable to keep the width at around 15mm, as that matches the 2x6 connector.

Phil.
 
Azure

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Posted: 02:47am 14 Jun 2018
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A 3 pin 0.1" header [3v3, pin, 5v] would cover most requirements (including none). IF placed close to the edge a vertical or horizontal header can used to choose whatever jumper mounting position is most convenient for the task required or it can also be hardwired.

A slide switch is a nice option as suggested but in this case I would prefer a nice simple 2 pin jumper block on a 3pin header, but that's just me.
 
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