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Forum Index : Microcontroller and PC projects : PicoMite: PicoGAME VGA development

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Rickard5

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Posted: 02:23pm 10 Apr 2022
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  Mixtel90 said  

I *could* make the board bigger to fit the CMM2 case but I have the same problem (P&P costs) getting those, they cost more and the PCB costs more. Anyway, I'm an awkward so and so. :)


Man PLEASE make them as size efficient as possible, and I'll design 3d printed cases for them all day long, and post them up!!!!
I may be Vulgar, but , while I'm poor, I'm Industrious, Honest,  and trustworthy! I Know my Place
 
Mixtel90

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Posted: 02:43pm 10 Apr 2022
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This PCB size is *very* efficient for the Hammond case. :)

JLCPCB do a special offer on PCBs of 100mm x 100mm or under - they are very cheap. The Hammond case can take up to 100mm x 98mm (which is what I've used). If you were to 3D print something, then pre-cut front and rear panels to replace those supplied with the Hammond case would be great. Unfortunately I can't give you sizes as I haven't got a case (or a 3D printer - or anywhere to put one for that matter).

If you can get the Hammond case it's very reasonable and fairly widely available - it's just the stupid minimum order charges to get cheap postage that's the problem. I don't like paying 6UKP for the case then 12UKP postage (because I'm spending less than 30UKP) then 30% VAT on the total = 23.4UKP. It wouldn't cost much more to buy 5 cases rather than one. This sort of thing isn't usually a problem for a business, but for a single hobbyist it's a right pain.

I've contacted a small distributor in the UK, asking them if they might consider stocking this case as they already do a couple of other Hammond cases and this is smaller (and more versatile for a hobbyist IMHO) than either of those. We'll have to see what they say.
Mick

Zilog Inside! nascom.info for Nascom & Gemini
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al18
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Joined: 06/07/2019
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Posted: 04:07pm 10 Apr 2022
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In the US Mouser charges $7.16 for the Hammond 1593WBK black case, and the same amount for the white case 1593WGY and shipping is  $6.99. Everyone charges for shipping these days, even the discount, surplus  stores.
 
Mixtel90

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Posted: 04:56pm 10 Apr 2022
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Oh, don't get me wrong - I don't mind paying postage or even paying tax on the postage. What I don't like is when it works out that I'm paying almost as much for 5 boxes as I would for one simply because of the company's attitude to postage charges. Having to make an order up to 30UKP +VAT before a 12 UKP postage charge is dropped (remember we have to pay 30% on top of goods+postage) is useless to hobbyists.

I deal with a small distributor (Bitsbox) quite a lot. They don't have a big range of stuff but they have a great attitude to hobbyists. There's no minimum order charge. Your postage is always going to be 2.20UKP no matter what. All prices include VAT and delivery is usually about 2 days.

I've just bought D sockets to populate two Pico GAME boards from another company - Toby Electronics. Once again, delivery was quick. Postage was 4.50UKP in this case, but still nowhere close to 12UKP+VAT!
Mick

Zilog Inside! nascom.info for Nascom & Gemini
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KD5ZXG
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Joined: 21/01/2022
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Posted: 12:18am 11 Apr 2022
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  Rickard5 said  Man PLEASE make them as size efficient as possible, and I'll design 3d printed cases for them all day long, and post them up!!!!


Print a keyboard lower-half-shell for a pcb with connectors all on one side.
What's working for PS/2 these days, Cherry?
Edited 2022-04-11 10:22 by KD5ZXG
 
Rickard5

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Posted: 05:15am 11 Apr 2022
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  KD5ZXG said  
Print a keyboard lower-half-shell for a pcb with connectors all on one side.
What's working for PS/2 these days, Cherry?


Give me more of an Idea of what ya want ? I'm sure I can draw something up I have already been working on an All in one Keyboard Idea LIKE THE 80'S 8-BIT computers we all love, or something I.m Loving something Like this
I may be Vulgar, but , while I'm poor, I'm Industrious, Honest,  and trustworthy! I Know my Place
 
Mixtel90

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Posted: 07:00am 11 Apr 2022
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All PS/2 will work (AFAIK) as will PS/2-compatible USB keyboards (as used with the CMM2). It's usually unclear if you have the latter type though as some are marked and most not.

Availability of PS/2 keyboards is very variable. I'm not sure that there is a reliable supply from a single manufacturer now - you'd need that to work with a 3D printed lower case half. There are keyboard kits and vintage keyboards that would do it, but the cost is horrendous.
Mick

Zilog Inside! nascom.info for Nascom & Gemini
Preliminary MMBasic docs & my PCB designs
 
Mixtel90

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Posted: 08:43am 11 Apr 2022
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Up to 10 minor PCB fixes and minor enhancements for the next version. No problems (so far) will prevent the current version from being built though.
Mick

Zilog Inside! nascom.info for Nascom & Gemini
Preliminary MMBasic docs & my PCB designs
 
Amnesie
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Posted: 09:05am 11 Apr 2022
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  Mixtel90 said  All PS/2 will work (AFAIK) as will PS/2-compatible USB keyboards (...)


Yep I can confirm this. I am some kind of keyboard horder and have A LOT of mechanical (not those rubberdome sh*t) Cherry keyboards. Most of them have a USB-connector but support the PS/2 protocol, no problem with that. I love the support of both protocolls, I only have to use a USB-to-PS/2 adaptor and that's it. But as said, the adaptor is only physical, the keyboard MUST support both proctolls.

I can recommend the CHERRY G84-4100 line, supports both, is mechanical, very small and cheap on the used-market.
 
thwill

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Joined: 16/09/2019
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Posted: 09:39am 11 Apr 2022
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My parts are starting to arrive in industrial quantities, I'm not going to be running out of 9-pin male DSUBs any time soon.

The audio jacks I ordered aren't quite right, there is an extra pin at the back (?) and the other pins aren't quite aligned with the PCB, though there is some mechanical give so I expect I'll be able to bodge it one way or another:



  Mixtel90 said  Up to 10 minor PCB fixes and minor enhancements for the next version. No problems (so far) will prevent the current version from being built though.


Some thoughts on the PCB:

1. What is the device called, the PCB calls it "PicoGAME VGA", this thread calls it the "PicoMite VGA game PCB" ?

2. Please add a revision number to the PCB

3. If the PCB (or the build instructions) actually say Nintendo or NES anywhere then don't, they are very litigous. In the instructions you can call it a "Classic 9 pin Game Controller" - that's the search term that will bring up the correct items on AliExpress. Note that a real NES controller had a bespoke connector rather than the 9-pin DSUB.

4. This comment is probably "too late", and probably doesn't matter (it's just my OCD) but logically (at least in my mind) port A should probably have the joystick behaviour and port B the serial comms behaviour.

Thanks again for this Mick,

Tom
MMBasic for Linux, Game*Mite, CMM2 Welcome Tape, Creaky old text adventures
 
Mixtel90

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Posted: 10:28am 11 Apr 2022
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Better check the connections on that socket, Tom, it may not work out the same. What make/model is it?

1 - I've always thought of it as the "PicoGAME VGA". However, for the purposes of this thread I changed the name as no-one would have known what I was on about. :)

2 - It's done now. The upcoming version will be 1.2

3 - Now there's a thought... :)  Makes life so difficult - I can't use Atari or NES to describe *anything* - including the controller mode. lol  Better just specify a circuit diagram for controllers that will work and leave it up to the constructor. :)

4 - Way too late. The best I could do is to swap the A and B socket labels on the PCB and in any documentation.
Mick

Zilog Inside! nascom.info for Nascom & Gemini
Preliminary MMBasic docs & my PCB designs
 
thwill

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Posted: 10:58am 11 Apr 2022
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  Mixtel90 said  Better check the connections on that socket, Tom, it may not work out the same. What make/model is it?


Good catch, not the same:


I'm guessing since it seems to have 4 independent pins it must be a "4 pole combine" with Mic.

My reading is that Pin 1 is Ground, Pin 2 is right, but is it pin 3 or 4 that is left ?

Assuming I can just leave the Mic disconnected (or GND it ?) then I might still make this work with bent pins, bodge wires and insulation tape.

  Mixtel90 said  1 - I've always thought of it as the "PicoGAME VGA". However, for the purposes of this thread I changed the name as no-one would have known what I was on about. :)


Ack.

  Quote  4 - Way too late. The best I could do is to swap the A and B socket labels on the PCB and in any documentation.


Thought as much, leave it be IMO.

Best wishes,

Tom
MMBasic for Linux, Game*Mite, CMM2 Welcome Tape, Creaky old text adventures
 
Volhout
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Posted: 11:22am 11 Apr 2022
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1=gnd (depending apple of nokia standard mic or gnd)
4=gnd (depending apple of nokia standard mic or gnd)
3=left (tip)
2=right
PicomiteVGA PETSCII ROBOTS
 
thwill

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Posted: 11:35am 11 Apr 2022
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Thanks Volhout, it appears to be the port for a Nokia headset connector - unless I've got my head on backwards that can be bodged into Mick's PCB without too much difficulty.

What should I do with the Mic pin ? - ground it ?

Best wishes,

Tom

P.S. I received your PM, and will send you a PCB as soon as I have a confirmed spare.
Edited 2022-04-11 21:37 by thwill
MMBasic for Linux, Game*Mite, CMM2 Welcome Tape, Creaky old text adventures
 
Mixtel90

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Posted: 11:53am 11 Apr 2022
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I *think* the connections to that socket would be:
1 - Tip - L
2 - Ring1 - R
3 - Ring2 - GND
4 - Sleeve - GND

It should be signal compatible then.

Mechanically the best way might be to:
Cut off the plastic locating pins
Bend up pin1 (the odd one) to isolate it. You'll need to wire link this to GND later.
Mount the socket on the *bottom* of the pcb.
Wire link pin1 to the GND connection to the north - towards R36.
I think it'll work now, but R & L will be reversed.

Alternatively, mount it dead bug style on the top of the board, but you'll need to insulate it in some way.


EDIT:
Yes, ground it. :)
.
Edited 2022-04-11 21:55 by Mixtel90
Mick

Zilog Inside! nascom.info for Nascom & Gemini
Preliminary MMBasic docs & my PCB designs
 
Volhout
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Posted: 11:53am 11 Apr 2022
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When you ground the MIC pin you are sure that whatever headset you plug in (apple or other) you get stereo sound.
When not, you can only use certain mfgr headsets as earphones.
PicomiteVGA PETSCII ROBOTS
 
thwill

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Posted: 12:07pm 11 Apr 2022
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Thanks guys, I think I see how to do it (though I did have my head turned around). I might just connect it with flying leads until I've got my head around the orientation and then use some masking tape and dead bug it as Mick described.

Best wishes,

Tom
MMBasic for Linux, Game*Mite, CMM2 Welcome Tape, Creaky old text adventures
 
Rickard5

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Posted: 01:11pm 11 Apr 2022
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  Mixtel90 said  This PCB size is *very* efficient for the Hammond case. :)

JLCPCB do a special offer on PCBs of 100mm x 100mm or under - they are very cheap. The Hammond case can take up to 100mm x 98mm (which is what I've used). If you were to 3D print something, then pre-cut front and rear panels to replace those supplied with the Hammond case would be great. Unfortunately I can't give you sizes as I haven't got a case (or a 3D printer - or anywhere to put one for that matter).

If you can get the Hammond case it's very reasonable and fairly widely available - it's just the stupid minimum order charges to get cheap postage that's the problem. I don't like paying 6UKP for the case then 12UKP postage (because I'm spending less than 30UKP) then 30% VAT on the total = 23.4UKP. It wouldn't cost much more to buy 5 cases rather than one. This sort of thing isn't usually a problem for a business, but for a single hobbyist it's a right pain.



Hey MIXTEL,
These Toronxy X1  are kind Crappy, but they'll do the job if your just looking to print cases or mechanical parts, and they stow away nicely. and for $100. what you're getting is the ability to have exactly what you want when you want for pennies. I get filament @ microcenter for $16-$18 / Kilo so near 2 cents a Gram, and the case I'm drawing for my VGA 1.3 board is about 60 grams of filament so it'll cost $120 to print NO VAT NO WAITING and Exactly what you want in all the colors of the Rainbow . so you don't have to make boards a fixed size unless you're going for a " System" THING where every box stacks the same !and the best bit is all the port openings are already cut so no cutting front and back panels :)
I may be Vulgar, but , while I'm poor, I'm Industrious, Honest,  and trustworthy! I Know my Place
 
Mixtel90

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Posted: 02:54pm 11 Apr 2022
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That's pretty neat. :)  I can see it lacks quite a bit in the rigidity stakes, but for small parts you might get away with that.


Just getting to the "I should be able to power this up soon" stage. The regulator and the video adjustment preset are in the post now. Apart from the points I made earlier I've not come across any assembly "nasties". Follow the rules though, and put the lowest stuff on the board first. It makes life much easier. Volhout will be pleased to hear that I'm enabling the SMPS on one board and changing the audio circuit to his design (but not adding the transistor output stage at this point - it may eventually replace JS1 but I need to test that first).
Mick

Zilog Inside! nascom.info for Nascom & Gemini
Preliminary MMBasic docs & my PCB designs
 
Rickard5

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Posted: 04:42pm 11 Apr 2022
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  Mixtel90 said  That's pretty neat. :)  I can see it lacks quite a bit in the rigidity stakes, but for small parts you might get away with that.

Mick
Like I say the Tronsky is a POS, but I have one and for Mechanical parts it's a time and money saver, The wife isn't going to print Figurines, and threads are pretty hard, I was in to the 3d printer ting for a long time, until I could no longer build a better or cheeper machine than I could just buy for pennies, Now their a TOOL, and an amazing tool at that I have 2 Ender3 machines in my shop and my buddy picked one up this weekend for $199, Cheap as Chips man got to have one ! :)
I may be Vulgar, but , while I'm poor, I'm Industrious, Honest,  and trustworthy! I Know my Place
 
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