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Forum Index : Microcontroller and PC projects : HC-12 Tester/Programmer PCB 1A...

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Grogster

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Joined: 31/12/2012
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 9077
Posted: 11:29pm 03 May 2018
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So many good ideas coming being posted here. We might have to have a poll to work out which one to use!!!!

I do like Quazee137's one above.

EDIT:

@ Azure - Yes, that is also my thoughts. 3D printers are getting cheaper all the time. Perhaps sometime soon I will shell out for one.Edited by Grogster 2018-05-05
Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops!
 
CaptainBoing

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Joined: 07/09/2016
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1990
Posted: 07:49am 04 May 2018
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  Grogster said   So many good ideas coming being posted here. We might have to have a poll to work out which one to use!!!!


Toggle Clamp. really like that, fast to use too
 
Andrew_G
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Joined: 18/10/2016
Location: Australia
Posts: 842
Posted: 07:34am 05 May 2018
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Hi Grogs,

I've got 5 more HC-12s on the way (plus 2 USB ones).
Are you selling the PCB/Kit/Pogo pins? (I would use my own brick to hold 'em down).

More seriously, if the 5 pin header at the top of the HC-12 had a protrusion you could place the board under it and lower it down to the bottom pins. Then you would only need a smaller clip (or brick) at the bottom.

Cheers, Andrew
 
Chopperp

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Joined: 03/01/2018
Location: Australia
Posts: 1032
Posted: 08:00am 05 May 2018
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  Andrew_G said  
I've got 5 more HC-12s on the way

Hi Andrew, Where did you end up ordering the standard HC-12's from.
Thanks
ChopperP
 
Grogster

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Posted: 08:03am 05 May 2018
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@ Andrew_G - Not selling kits on the website, but I can put it up if you are interested. Give me a day or two.
Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops!
 
Phil23
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Joined: 27/03/2016
Location: Australia
Posts: 1664
Posted: 08:50am 05 May 2018
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I'd try something like this from a spring steel clip a bit like they use on some heat sinks, but with the catching edges facing outwards, so you can squeeze them in to get them down the slots & then squeeze again to release them.

bit like these, but with some insulating material below.





Legs are wrong above, would need to be folded 90° outwards & have just enough width the fit down the slots.

Phil.
 
Grogster

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Posted: 10:39am 05 May 2018
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It's up on my website here.
Currently only listed as a full-kit, but I plan to add just the blank PCB tomorrow, so if that is what you are really after, just wait till tomorrow.
Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops!
 
Andrew_G
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Joined: 18/10/2016
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Posts: 842
Posted: 11:22am 05 May 2018
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Hi Grogs, I'll order one full kit tomorrow, cheers, Andrew
 
Andrew_G
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Posted: 11:27pm 05 May 2018
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1) Grogster - just ordered a kit
2) Chopper - sorry I lost track of your question (iPad late at night). I bought a couple of batches ages ago from Banggood - they have been great. Given Grogster's concerns about "fake" units I went for the same this time round:

Here

At least I might have all fakes or all genuine??

Cheers,

Andrew
 
Chopperp

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Joined: 03/01/2018
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Posts: 1032
Posted: 12:16am 06 May 2018
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Thanks Andrew.
They have this note so they could be fakes ( ), so good idea getting them from the same place.
Note: HC-11 cannot communicate with the HC-12, they work independently, in pairs
ChopperP
 
Andrew_G
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Posts: 842
Posted: 02:12am 06 May 2018
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Hi Chopper, I think/hope that in the back of my mind it is more to do with the 11 being superseded by the 12 and that they are not backward compatible.

Andrew
 
Chopperp

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Posted: 02:53am 06 May 2018
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OK, could be right.
ChopperP
 
Grogster

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Posted: 11:59pm 06 May 2018
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@ Andrew_G - Your kit will be sent today.

The HC11 is not compatible with the HC12, and the HC12 is not backwards compatible from what I have been able to read on the subject. You are PROBABLY safest buying from the same seller you have had a good run from before. That is not to say that they might start selling the fakes also, as they won't know themselves probably!

I myself have bought five from the store I always used to buy them from, and if they seem OK, I will buy another ten. I had bought two batches of FIFTY from this seller before, and they were all genuine ones. The trouble is that you never know when the fakes will turn up, as unless the sellers get their modules directly from the manufacturer.......

I have asked a few sellers if they do. Most did not reply at all, and the ones that did, were asking: 'What's your problem?', so they don't understand the question as asked anyway.
Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops!
 
Andrew_G
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Posted: 04:25am 07 May 2018
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Thanks Grogs. I'm most impressed with the turnaround.
Cheers, Andrew
 
CaptainBoing

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Joined: 07/09/2016
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Posted: 09:49am 07 May 2018
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+1 Andrew_GEdited by CaptainBoing 2018-05-08
 
Andrew_G
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Posted: 06:29am 10 May 2018
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Hi Grogs,
Re the suggestion on the other thread of hooking up a MM to help the testing can you let me know of anything I need to do/not do before I assemble the kit you have just sent me - thanks (I can't think of anything given you have done all the SMD work already).
From my (limited) thinking it could be as easy as disconnecting your USB power supply and using the 5 pin female header to connect to a MM running some sort of clever test routine?

(The next version might have a three pin jumper (or even a different On/OFF/On switch) to select power from your USB OR the 5-pin header??)

Cheers, AEdited by Andrew_G 2018-05-11
 
Grogster

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Posted: 08:47am 10 May 2018
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Nothing springs to mind. Instructions are included with the kit.

As designed, the board assumes you will connect to the VCP with something like TeraTerm or GFXterm, and just press a key. As soon as you do that, the HC12 will transmit the received keystrokes. That's how I have been doing it.

If I did a new version of that board, I cold include a MM2 and a button to send data to the HC12 to make is self-contained as mentioned. I am not sure if it is worth that effort though, as with a USB connection, you can do the same thing. Perhaps REMOVE the USB connection for a new version of the PCB, and replace with a MM2 chip.

EDIT: The main reason for having the USB serial connection, is so that you can program an HC12 module as well as being able to test it. Programming can be done via the MM2, but you need a serial connection to the console for that anyway, so.....Edited by Grogster 2018-05-11
Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops!
 
Andrew_G
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Posts: 842
Posted: 10:57am 10 May 2018
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Thanks Grogs. I guess I should start looking for a brick to hold down the modules. Cheers, Andrew
 
Grogster

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Posts: 9077
Posted: 10:55pm 10 May 2018
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This weekend, I am going to try Mick's(bigmik) idea of using two of those strong magnets from an old hard-drive. I am reasonably confident that this method will work, and it is simple. Will keep the thread posted.
Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops!
 
Andrew_G
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Joined: 18/10/2016
Location: Australia
Posts: 842
Posted: 01:26am 14 May 2018
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Hi Grogs, your Tester Kit arrived this morning (I guess sitting around in an Aus Post bag for the weekend). Not bad - less than a week from order to receipt.
I looks really well set out and your SMD soldering is great. Your instructions are clear and I should be up and running as soon as I have cleared some domestic duties.
Cheers, Andrew
 
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