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Forum Index : Microcontroller and PC projects : Genuine HC12’s...

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CaptainBoing

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Joined: 07/09/2016
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1986
Posted: 12:04pm 29 May 2018
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+1
 
Grogster

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Joined: 31/12/2012
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 9067
Posted: 04:56am 09 Jun 2018
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GENUINE HC12's are now available from my website for anyone who wants them. US$5 each including little helical antenna. This is a buck or so more then eBay or AliExpress, but I guarantee they are the genuine article for anyone wanting to be sure they purchase the correct ones.

Genuine HC12 modules.
Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops!
 
MicroBlocks

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Joined: 12/05/2012
Location: Thailand
Posts: 2209
Posted: 02:30pm 11 Jun 2018
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@Grog,

I received a few of them today from the ebay seller you mentioned in the 1st post.

Looking at them, I would say that they are indeed the real ones.

I am planning to use them inside an enclosure and was wondering if you have experience with different orientations of the antenna and the difference in transmission/receiving distances.

In my case I would like to keep the antenna within the enclosure (plastic).

I plan to use header pins to connect the module to a pcb and mount the antenna in the same plane as the module. This will mean that the pcb that the module is mounted on will be under the module and antenna.

As I never played with these modules before any experience would be very helpful.
Microblocks. Build with logic.
 
Boppa
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Joined: 08/11/2016
Location: Australia
Posts: 814
Posted: 04:07pm 11 Jun 2018
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whips should always be vertical, as they radiate in a donut pattern (unless its a 1/4 wave in which case its a sphere) so if you have it horizontal you will get good range at 90 deg to its length, and practically zero off the ends

We used this feature to foxhunt CB radios, by turning in a circle with a horizontal whip, you could get a rough idea of direction by watching the signal strength meter

eta I still havent gotten to those pics Grogster, the compy I have all that stuff on is a couple of hundred km away atm until I get home againEdited by Boppa 2018-06-13
 
Grogster

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Joined: 31/12/2012
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 9067
Posted: 10:01pm 11 Jun 2018
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In my case, I use a little slice of the band at 458.6MHz, which is allowed up to 500mW, so I can run the module at 100mW to get the best range - your local regulations may well be different. However, with that setup, with a small helical on the transmitting node, and a whip on an F-to-U.FL lead on the receiving end inside the house, I was able to get about 400 meters or so. Not bad for a small helical and an inside receiving antenna.

I have another setup where the receiving antenna is outside on the roof, and with the same frequency and power I can get about 600m or so reliable comms still using the tiny little helical.

The helical is mounted in-line with the module, and away from anything metallic. Here is an image of how I have one setup on one of my PCB's that gives the range I have just mentioned:





It is VITAL that there is no ground-plane or any other copper tracks anywhere near the helical, especially at the open end of the helical. You probably already know that. Despite this crampt-ish looking layout, I get 500m easy with 100mW to a roof-mounted receiving antenna. The antennas I am using on this PCB, are 27mm helicals from this seller. These are 433MHz antennas, so I cut about 1.5 turns off the end of them to re-tune them up to around 458MHz where I need them.

I have seen people mount the helical back against the rear of the module. This will work OK for short-range and makes it nice and compact, but that will affect the range as you have the metallic PCB and it's components right beside the helical, which will affect it's performance quite badly. However, if you only need a short distance....

As you have never played with these modules before, I strongly suggest you get hold of Rob's little HC12 config utility which makes setting them up a point-and-click and very painless operation. I can probably upload it here if you don't have it. I will check with Rob, but he would probably be fine with that(or posting a link where you can download it from).

I encourage you to set FU4 mode, as this gives the best performance I have found. You are limited to 1200 baud, but that has never been a problem for me. Different modes have faster baud-rates, but the range will be less for the same output power. It does depend on what you are actually trying to do.
Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops!
 
MicroBlocks

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Joined: 12/05/2012
Location: Thailand
Posts: 2209
Posted: 08:47am 12 Jun 2018
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It will be part of home automation.
The box it will be the tibbit enclosure.
Going to be a tight fit with all the other parts.


It will be wall mounted and I planned to use it the same as you shown on your pcb.
Do you mount the module with just pad, no header pins?


Edited by MicroBlocks 2018-06-13
Microblocks. Build with logic.
 
Grogster

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Joined: 31/12/2012
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 9067
Posted: 09:01am 12 Jun 2018
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Yes, I just solder the module to the pads. They never move after that.
It is also quite easy to remove them if you ever need to.




Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops!
 
Grogster

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Joined: 31/12/2012
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 9067
Posted: 09:52pm 12 Jun 2018
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Link to Rob's HC12 config utility...
Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops!
 
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