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Forum Index : Microcontroller and PC projects : I broke it
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lew247 Guru  Joined: 23/12/2015 Location: United KingdomPosts: 1702 |
Yes I stupidly tried to solder smd and failed miserably! Has anyone got a 7inch SSD1963 display and a multimeter? If you have would you please measure where the pins on the backlight control smd solder points go to please? I could do with the 1963_PWM if you could tell me where else on the board those two pins are connected to please? Then I can use a wire jumper to "botch it" Because my "soldering attempt" totally removed the solder points and left nothing behind that is solderable to {I'm "hoping" it goes somewhere else before it reaches that SMD cpu with the tiny pins") I'm guessing one side of it should go to 0V the other hopefully through another component that is easier to solder a wire to |
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Azure Guru Joined: 09/11/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 446 |
This my second attempt, type a long reply and got an error message when I pressed post reply. My board has three resistors for the backlight control settings option as follows: Position Part Description Top resistor R8 1963_PWM Middle resistor R7 LED_A Bottom resistor R9 Always On R8 left side goes to a plate through hole just above to the left. Plate through hole goes to PWM1963 pin 51 which is the backlight PWM pin. There is a plate through hole to the right of the track coming from that pin you might be ale to solder to. R8 right side is connected to the right side of R7, the left side of R9, the top of R10 and the top right pin of U4. R7 left side goes to a plate through hole directly above it. Plate through hole goes to the main interface connector second pin down on left labelled LED_A. R7 is connected to R8 right side, R9 left side, R10 top and top right pin of U4. R9 left side is connected to R8 right side, R7 right side, R10 top and top right pin of U4. R9 right side is connected to the right side of C26 below it. Hope that matches your board type and is what you wanted. |
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| lew247 Guru Joined: 23/12/2015 Location: United KingdomPosts: 1702 |
Thank you so much Azure Sorry for the delay replying but I'm in Spain till next Monday and only just logged in on my phone |
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| lew247 Guru Joined: 23/12/2015 Location: United KingdomPosts: 1702 |
I really cannot believe this - well I can as it's happened I did exactly the same thing with the new screen I bought £65 wasted! I really have to stop trying to solder, my eyes are just not good enough |
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Grogster Admin Group  Joined: 31/12/2012 Location: New ZealandPosts: 9610 |
What are you actually trying to do with the SMD on the LCD? Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops! |
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TassyJim Guru Joined: 07/08/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 6283 |
Change the jumper for the backlight control options. I find them a bugger too. Jim VK7JH MMedit |
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| Grogster Admin Group Joined: 31/12/2012 Location: New ZealandPosts: 9610 |
OH! Gotcha! Thanks.  For some reason, I thought he was trying to hack the 1963 chip or something. Yes, the pads are tiny, and de-laminate easily if you are not careful. I found that the easiest method - for me - was to remove the little zero-ohm resistor, and bin it - it's so tiny and too fiddly to work with. Now use a single strand of wire from some stranded hookup wire as your new link, and solder-blob that across the pads with some flux. You must solder very quickly, or the heat will zoom down the strand and melt the first blob. Now cut off the excess strand with side-cutters. Done. Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops! |
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