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Forum Index : Microcontroller and PC projects : Greetings from the Gulf Coast

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horus
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Joined: 25/04/2021
Location: United States
Posts: 12
Posted: 03:51am 26 Apr 2021
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Greetings from the U.S. Gulf Coast,

I am David to my friends, and go by horus here since I have an abiding interest in things ancient and Egyptian.  I also like playing bass guitar, running PCLinuxOS, and generally all things retro and BASIC.  I'm old enough to have cut my teeth on MBASIC/BASIC-80 back in the day.

Yesterday, my new RetroMax arrived.  I am excited at the prospect of a machine that can run interpreted BASIC faster than many 8-bit CPU could run assembler back in the day, and is so tiny it will fit in my already crowded backpack.

I've been playing around with BASIC-80 on another retro board I have for a while now, but was intrigued enough by the look of MMBasic that I took the plunge.  Wow, this beastie is fast!

Some Questions:

Is there a single place that documents MMBasic for the RetroMax?  I see a lot of stuff for the Colo(u)r Maximite 2 and earlier, but I'd like to see what parts of MMBasic are supposed to work and not work with the RetroMax.

Yeah, there's one area I already wonder about:  Turtle Graphics commands don't seem to be recognized on my RetroMax.  I see where other types of graphics seem to work OK (if the "Welcome Tape" programs are any indication.)  Every time i run a program that uses the Turtle, the first TURTLE statement throws a "Command not recognized" error on that line.  (If this is the only problem and it is insurmountable, I'll figure a way to work around it eventually, I'm sure.)

I'm running v. 5.07.00b27 of the firmware, and using a 1600 X 900 VGA LCD flat panel if that makes any difference.  (Oh, and my Logitech wireless keyboard, a model K270, works just fine - haven't tried the mouse yet - don't know how to program for one yet.)

I'm running it from a power-bank built into one of my portable work lamps, and it cooks for a good long time without any problems (or any need for AC power).

Well, I'm probably boring everyone to tears, but I'd bet many of us start of with questions like this. [S](Psst... I wish this forum had a topic search function - or am I just missing it?)[/S]

Ack!  Just like me... I found the search function right after posting, and it actually works rather well.  Sorry!
Edited 2021-04-26 14:12 by horus
 
Mixtel90

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Joined: 05/10/2019
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 7937
Posted: 06:54am 26 Apr 2021
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Hi Horus :)
As far as I know the Retromax is identical to the CMM2 apart from some hardware expansion. It uses the same, identical version of MMBasic running on the same chip and a micro SD card rather than a standard one, but all the commands are the same.

Have fun...  :)
Mick

Zilog Inside! nascom.info for Nascom & Gemini
Preliminary MMBasic docs & my PCB designs
 
thwill

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Joined: 16/09/2019
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 4311
Posted: 08:41am 26 Apr 2021
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  horus said  Greetings from the U.S. Gulf Coast,


And greetings from sunny Manchester (UK).

  Quote  Yeah, there's one area I already wonder about:  Turtle Graphics commands don't seem to be recognized on my RetroMax.


That seems to be a new bug in the current firmware and not RetroMax specific, I have informed the relevant authorities ;-)

Best wishes,

Tom
MMBasic for Linux, Game*Mite, CMM2 Welcome Tape, Creaky old text adventures
 
thwill

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Joined: 16/09/2019
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 4311
Posted: 09:10am 26 Apr 2021
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... and the relevant authorities have fixed it. You need to upgrade your firmware to 5.0.7.00b29, see this thread https://www.thebackshed.com/forum/ViewTopic.php?FID=16&TID=13459&LastEntry=Y#167815

Best wishes,

Tom
MMBasic for Linux, Game*Mite, CMM2 Welcome Tape, Creaky old text adventures
 
CircuitGizmos

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Joined: 08/09/2011
Location: United States
Posts: 1427
Posted: 03:58pm 26 Apr 2021
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The CMM2 and the RetroMax both use the same firmware. In other words, the firmware compiled for the CMM2 is what is loaded into a RetroMax.
Micromites and Maximites! - Beginning Maximite
 
horus
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Joined: 25/04/2021
Location: United States
Posts: 12
Posted: 05:32am 27 Apr 2021
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I want to thank all who responded for the warm welcome.  I've pulled down the firmware .zip file, and now need to do some light reading on how to verify and install it.  I hope it's not any more complicated than installing RomWBW...

Anyhoo, watch this space for a progress report.
 
lizby
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Joined: 17/05/2016
Location: United States
Posts: 3378
Posted: 11:19am 27 Apr 2021
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  horus said   I've pulled down the firmware .zip file, and now need to do some light reading on how to verify and install it.


Back of the CMM2 manual: Appendix G -- Loading the Firmware
PicoMite, Armmite F4, SensorKits, MMBasic Hardware, Games, etc. on fruitoftheshed
 
CircuitGizmos

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Joined: 08/09/2011
Location: United States
Posts: 1427
Posted: 03:05pm 27 Apr 2021
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  horus said  I want to thank all who responded for the warm welcome.  I've pulled down the firmware .zip file, and now need to do some light reading on how to verify and install it.  I hope it's not any more complicated than installing RomWBW...

Anyhoo, watch this space for a progress report.


Specifically for the RetroMax:

https://docs.myretromax.com/Reloading_Firmware.html

.
Edited 2021-04-28 01:06 by CircuitGizmos
Micromites and Maximites! - Beginning Maximite
 
horus
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Joined: 25/04/2021
Location: United States
Posts: 12
Posted: 10:16pm 27 Apr 2021
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  CircuitGizmos said  
  horus said  I want to thank all who responded for the warm welcome.  I've pulled down the firmware .zip file, and now need to do some light reading on how to verify and install it.  I hope it's not any more complicated than installing RomWBW...

Anyhoo, watch this space for a progress report.


Specifically for the RetroMax:

https://docs.myretromax.com/Reloading_Firmware.html

.


Yup, I found and read all that early this morning when I got home from work. I've got the STM32CubeProgrammer and installed it on my laptop (including the required library  dependencies).  That actually seemed pretty easy.  

I wanna go the Male A to Male A USB route, as that seems more straightforward.  That means I want to build a cable of this type... (faster than waiting for one to be delivered, and might be a bit of fun, too.)

One thing I haven't found yet:  does anyone know the pinout for a USB A Male to A Male cable?  Is it straight through, or do D+ and D- cross over, or what?  I'd hate to fry my RetroMax with a cable I built incorrectly.

I do have a Male A-to-Male A "easy transfer cable" (Belkin model F4U060), but it has a "bolus" in the middle that looks like it may contain some interfacing circuitry.  I'm betting I don't wanna use that.  (This thing was built for Windows 8.0 per its rather scant documentation... my Linux box would likely kick a fuss at that.)

My searching for a pinout on the interwebs has been remarkably unsuccessful so far.  Seems like the sources in all my search hits just dance around any kind of definite pinout.  (Like it might expose some liability or something?)

Thanks for any insights.  Have soldering gun; will travel.  
Edited 2021-04-28 08:18 by horus
 
TassyJim

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Joined: 07/08/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 6283
Posted: 10:26pm 27 Apr 2021
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Your "easy transfer cable" should be avoided without testing it first.

To make your own cable, there is no crossover. D+ to D+ etc

Most cables will have the same core colours and you can graft like for like but be prepared for a surprise there too.
If you get the data pins wrong, no great drama, just no-go.
If you get the power pins wrong, not so good.

Jim
VK7JH
MMedit
 
horus
Newbie

Joined: 25/04/2021
Location: United States
Posts: 12
Posted: 11:02pm 27 Apr 2021
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  TassyJim said  Your "easy transfer cable" should be avoided without testing it first.

To make your own cable, there is no crossover. D+ to D+ etc

Most cables will have the same core colours and you can graft like for like but be prepared for a surprise there too.
If you get the data pins wrong, no great drama, just no-go.
If you get the power pins wrong, not so good.

Jim


So, in unambiguous terms (hey, I'm a BASIC programmer   ):

Pin 1 ---------Vcc,5vdc------------ Pin 1
Pin 2 --------- Data - ------------ Pin 2
Pin 3 --------- Data + ------------ Pin 3
Pin 4 --------- GROUND ------------ Pin 4


I NEVER trust color codes on cable - I've learned that the hard way.  Checking continuity with a trusty meter is the way to go.

I didn't think the power leads would cross, but wasn't sure about the data lines.  Thanks for helping sort that out.  Tonight we build!

I figured the dingus in the middle of that easy transfer cable was a bit suspicious.  I may, however, since I've never had to use it, use both ends of it for feedstock in the building of this cable.  (The plug ends are of good quality, and the wire looks to be decent, too.)  Clip, clip!

Since I'm likely breaking a shield to splice this together, I'll keep the length to under a meter.  That ought to preserve throughput and current capacity to the best extent possible while still being a handy length (I figure I'll be updating often enough...)
 
lizby
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Joined: 17/05/2016
Location: United States
Posts: 3378
Posted: 11:07pm 27 Apr 2021
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Maybe the fun is avoided, but I ordered 2 of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Electop-Changer-Adapter-Coupler-Converter/dp/B015OMSQWM/

Second-day delivery in the U.S. I always leave one plugged into my CMM2 unless I'm using the USB keyboard (usually I'm using PC console over TeraTerm with VGA-to-HDMI-to-USB3 module to Windows Camera).
PicoMite, Armmite F4, SensorKits, MMBasic Hardware, Games, etc. on fruitoftheshed
 
horus
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Joined: 25/04/2021
Location: United States
Posts: 12
Posted: 11:20pm 27 Apr 2021
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  lizby said  Maybe the fun is avoided, but I ordered 2 of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Electop-Changer-Adapter-Coupler-Converter/dp/B015OMSQWM/

Second-day delivery in the U.S. I always leave one plugged into my CMM2 unless I'm using the USB keyboard (usually I'm using PC console over TeraTerm with VGA-to-HDMI-to-USB3 module to Windows Camera).


That looks like a nice bit of kit to have in your "go" bag.  Thanks!

Again, folks, thank you all for shepherding me through the noob stage.  I hope to get up to speed and coding in MMBASIC soon enough.
 
CircuitGizmos

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Joined: 08/09/2011
Location: United States
Posts: 1427
Posted: 02:20pm 28 Apr 2021
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  horus said  
So, in unambiguous terms (hey, I'm a BASIC programmer   ):

Pin 1 ---------Vcc,5vdc------------ Pin 1
Pin 2 --------- Data - ------------ Pin 2
Pin 3 --------- Data + ------------ Pin 3
Pin 4 --------- GROUND ------------ Pin 4


I NEVER trust color codes on cable - I've learned that the hard way.  Checking continuity with a trusty meter is the way to go.


I agree about not trusting the color codes - always check. Some cable manufacturers just do whatever they please.

Having said that, the official USB colors are:


Pin 1 - Vcc,5vdc - Red
Pin 2 - Data -   - White
Pin 3 - Data +   - Green
Pin 4 - GROUND   - Black
And a shield wire.

Micromites and Maximites! - Beginning Maximite
 
Volhout
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Joined: 05/03/2018
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 5089
Posted: 03:15pm 28 Apr 2021
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  horus said  
I NEVER trust color codes on cable - I've learned that the hard way.


Yip, I tried to repair a TI57 calculator when I was few years younger. I was student, and on a small budget.

TI:
Black = +
Red = -

Since then....I always check...
PicomiteVGA PETSCII ROBOTS
 
horus
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Joined: 25/04/2021
Location: United States
Posts: 12
Posted: 04:14pm 28 Apr 2021
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SUCCESS!  IT'S ALIVE!  

I did figure out, though, that I need a head-mounted magnifier to do fine work anymore.  Darn near went blind trying to see to work. {mumbles} gettin' too old, I guess...{/mumbles}

I did find a shield on this cable when I cut it up, and the heat-shrink I had on hand is really old, and not the "flow-fill" kind, so the support at the splice isn't what it should be, but it worked.  Even auto-negotiated USB 2.0 from a USB 3.0 port.

Turtle graphics work now.  I haven't had much time for a more thorough test, and probably won't until later this weekend, but it works.

STM32CubeProgrammer is some very well thought-out software!  I'm glad it is available for Linux, too.  It really made this firmware upgrade less of a nail-biter.

Well, my workbench is a wreck, and I've got to get off to work.  You folks rock on!
 
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