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Forum Index : Microcontroller and PC projects : Good places to get PCB’s made....

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Grogster

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Joined: 31/12/2012
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 9067
Posted: 12:34pm 23 Aug 2013
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We've deviated a little from the topic of where to get PCB's made, to how we here at the forums make them at home!

It's all good though.

On the iron, I bought a 2nd hand one from a 2nd hand shop at the time, for about $10, I think it was, so that there was never any danger of ruining the good clothes iron.

I have heard of the laminator method - I will have to check that one out again.
Don't you have to put the board through the laminator about 60 times?
...I am sure I read that somewhere...

EDIT: I see by reading the articles, that they hack the laminator to run much hotter, so that you can do the transfer in one pass with thin boards, or two passes with thicker boards.

EDIT: I note that on those links to the laminator method, they too mention that Brother laser printers are not any good for the toner-transfer method, as the toner is not "Refusable". The pile of evidence against Brother laser printers is growing with respect to the toner-transfer idea....Edited by Grogster 2013-08-24
Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops!
 
MOBI
Guru

Joined: 02/12/2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 819
Posted: 01:41pm 23 Aug 2013
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The Brother laser printers are perfectly ok for the Kinsten (UV) method of PCB manufacture (my preference). It doesn't "wick" and will do tracks and track spacing to 0.5mm no problems and can certainly do PIC32 TQFP pads.
David M.
 
Grogster

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Joined: 31/12/2012
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 9067
Posted: 08:06pm 23 Aug 2013
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Yea, I use my Brother printer for UV type board production too, and as you say - it works just fine for that method.
Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops!
 
Gordz
Regular Member

Joined: 10/08/2013
Location: Australia
Posts: 55
Posted: 07:07pm 24 Aug 2013
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I have a tin of PCB spray laquer which I use a lot. I choose good PCB from Jaycar which has no scratches or oxide finger prints then shine it on a buffer wheel. After that I clean it with IPA and spray it lightly with the laquer. When I need to make a PCB I just cut a piece off with tin snips sand the edges and clean it off with thinners to make it ready for thr transfer process. I also clean off the PCB with thinners after assembly and coat it as a final step.
 
VK2MCT
Senior Member

Joined: 30/03/2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 120
Posted: 03:36am 26 Aug 2013
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Would a 3D printer work for masking the copper of a PCB?

John B
VK2MCT
 
Gordz
Regular Member

Joined: 10/08/2013
Location: Australia
Posts: 55
Posted: 12:15pm 26 Aug 2013
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PCB masking material is able to take pretty high temperatures (solder mask) but if you are careful you can get pretty good results. You will find that the color around the solder pads will change when you solder the parts in. I had some success with an old HP plotter and some marker pens for doing 'solder mask' and component numbering. Not good enough for flow soldering but it looked pretty good for handing a prototype over to a customer
 
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