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Forum Index : Electronics : Bryan's Inverter build

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phil99

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Posted: 06:45am 13 Nov 2025
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The number of turns is the number through the hole. Looks like 4 to me.
 
KeepIS

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Posted: 08:49am 13 Nov 2025
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As phil99 said, 4 turns, and with those cores, I think the inductance meter is wrong.
NANO Inverter: Full download - Only Hex Ver 8.1Ks
 
Bryan1

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Posted: 10:37am 13 Nov 2025
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So Keepis I will do the other one and see if they do read the same with my meter and on talking with Roger he did say he had the crimping tool so one has to wonder if he also has an inductance meter too   I did get the 4 8mm lugs today too and still have one lug to put on the primary which I have.

So just got the connections on the main board to do and make up the LCD where I will pinch one from Mike's collection of boards then this inverter can start to take shape  

Got next Tuesday off work as I am getting my car serviced so will have a few hours to get more done and hopefully it won't be too long before testing can start.

Regards Bryan
 
Cpoc
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Posted: 12:26pm 13 Nov 2025
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Is 35mm2 too thin of a gauge for a 6k inverter. I would say 50 to 70 mm2 would be better.

Again I am no expert on this subject.
 
Bryan1

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Posted: 07:06am 14 Nov 2025
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  Cpoc said  Is 35mm2 too thin of a gauge for a 6k inverter. I would say 50 to 70 mm2 would be better.

Again I am no expert on this subject.


Me thinks if using 65sqmm in these toroids may be lucky to get 2 turns


 
Cpoc
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Posted: 03:18pm 14 Nov 2025
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Those chocks do not have much space in them. The chocks recommended by Dex are perfect but very expensive at about 100 Euros each. Perhaps we can find a better solution.
 
analog8484
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Posted: 04:58pm 14 Nov 2025
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  Bryan1 said  
I am glad I took my inductance meter to work and several goes did say the same result 9 UH So a question for the brains trust is 9uH too low for a choke.


9uH seems low.  I guess the cores you got only have 60u so that could explain the low inductance you are getting.
 
tinyt
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Posted: 09:00pm 15 Nov 2025
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My experience is that the color of the toroid tells something about its material. Green, yellow, and blue are for the higher frequencies. Black and maybe red can be used for power frequencies.
Edited 2025-11-16 07:01 by tinyt
 
KeepIS

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Posted: 10:14pm 15 Nov 2025
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I posted my data using those cores, that's why I asked about the core code, these are really good cores with better saturation levels.  

The following values are out a bit because falling REF DC throws out (increases) dt and no allowance is made for winding R-Loss or Jig switching R-Loss. BTW there is no current shunt R-loss.

CS571060 cores, 5 turns 6 stack resonant inductance @ 20kHz = 22.6uh, 4 turns around 13uH, you could always add another core if you can't fit an extra pass through to get 5 turns.

DSO calc:
 75A = 23uH     (75.9V)
125A = 19.9uH   (75.4V)
250A = 15.4uH   (70.2V) with dt reduced by 20%

  Quote  I have always imagined FETS with 40kW of LiFePO4 battery @ 53 volts with 40000uF on one side and looking into a big Toroid primary wound with a relatively short length of 50mm2 cable and a load condition that makes the Toroid primary look like a dead short.  

That's why I harp on about using two 6-stack chokes which allow a good winding length using a smaller gauge cable. The small resistance in the choke cables combined with any remaining inductance in the Chokes is all that stands between FET Survival and FET Graveyard under very high current trip conditions.

It may come down to just the Choke cable R-loss that gives the FETS the last buffer to survive long enough for the current trip to kick in.


I used 2AWG 35mm2 cable is rated at 188A continuous, you can get the same in welding cable rated at 220A, a bit harder to wind though.
NANO Inverter: Full download - Only Hex Ver 8.1Ks
 
Cpoc
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Posted: 02:31am 16 Nov 2025
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  Quote  I used 2AWG 35mm2 cable is rated at 188A continuous, you can get the same in welding cable rated at 220A, a bit harder to wind though.


Is that size 35mm2 way too thin for 6k continuous. I was thinking more like 1/0 or 53.5mm2 and going with 13 turns and using the cores that Dex used in his build.

This way the wires do not get to hot when running at higher loads.

However those cores are expensive but look really cool.
 
KeepIS

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Posted: 05:40am 16 Nov 2025
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I had zero problems in a single stage Inverter running at 8kW for around 45 minutes, run 6kw for over an hour, the cores do not heat, the quality cable is rated at 188A to 220A continuous 100% duty cycle. The cable feels about the same warmth as 53mm2 or whatever your 0G cable is on the Toroid.

I've popped the front cover with the dual Inverter cycling between 8kW to 13kW and like everything else in there, just luke warm to the hold/touch, same as the Primary on the Toroids.

The housing is not designed as like Sauna, with correct assisted convection air flow that makes more than 100% difference to the heat build up in the power compartment.
.
Edited 2025-11-16 15:40 by KeepIS
NANO Inverter: Full download - Only Hex Ver 8.1Ks
 
Cpoc
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Posted: 11:45am 16 Nov 2025
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KeepIS which cable wire are you referring to. Standard cable wire can not preform those numbers.

What is the minimum length needed.
 
Cpoc
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Posted: 08:00pm 16 Nov 2025
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KeepIS I saw you posted the specs of the wires and chokes on an early post.
 
KeepIS

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Posted: 09:44pm 16 Nov 2025
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Following 2AWG 35mm2 cable is rated at 188A continuous, Weld Flex is rated for 220A and is a bit thicker and not as flexible, I decided to go with first cable.

2 B&S (35mm2) 188 amp Copper Cable Single Core Australian Made
Nom Area: 32.07mm2
Rated to 188 amps Continuous Use
Applications: Battery and Starter Cable, Inverter, Dc-Dc Systems
Conductor: OXYGEN FREE Plain Copper Wire to AS/NZS 1125
Insulation: V90 PVC to AS/NZS 3808
Australian Made
UV Stable
5V90 PVC Cable
.

Edit: was rushing and missed your last post  
.
Edited 2025-11-17 07:45 by KeepIS
NANO Inverter: Full download - Only Hex Ver 8.1Ks
 
Bryan1

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Posted: 06:46am 17 Nov 2025
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G'Day Guy's,
           Well took the other toroids and wire into work today and wound the second choke and I did manage to get the bends on the turns pretty close to the same   Now got home and put the meter on 10uH so decided to test the first choke and it came in at 11uH so this meter I have that wasn't that cheap looks like ain't upto the task.

As far as cooling goes I will have one fan lower blowing onto the toroid and chokes and a second fan uptop to expel the hot air. Now the sides of this box does have slots top and bottom for cooling too.
 
Godoh
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Posted: 07:20am 17 Nov 2025
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hi Bryan, as far as fans go that sounds good, I do the same one fan at the bottom to blow air over the torroid and one up top to blow air over the fins on the circuit board.
I don't know how critters are up your way, but down here I put mouse mesh (5mm square mesh) and also fly wire over the fan grids.
That keeps mice, and lizards out of the inverter.
I used to fix electronic organs (only when I could not dodge them) they had problems in Northern NSW  with cockroaches. The cockroach urine was a problem and ate the copper tracks and the cockroaches also ate pvc insulation off the fine hookup wires.
Good luck with the chokes
Pete
 
Bryan1

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Joined: 22/02/2006
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Posts: 1595
Posted: 07:08am 19 Nov 2025
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G'Day Guy's,
           Well finally got the Kipoint inverter going on the lower shelf and either getting the courage to lift this box into place or get a mate around to help may be the best idea.

Pete after reading your post decided yes I will use some fine SS mesh I have here to cover the 4 areas where the cooling slots are so no critters can find the way in.

Just tinking now a dry fit where the box is so I can get all the cables cut to the right length on the chokes aswell as the primary wires where one lug is place. My work mate said today when i am ready just bring the chokes and lug's in an he will pt the lugs on for me.

Well found I had just enough of that SS mesh to do the job and only one section where there be a join. Found the easiest way to mount the mesh was some copper wire twist and lock, started with thin wire that poked straight thru but getting it back thru was fun so went with 1mm wire and used my awl from my leather working tools collection which pokes a small hole so the 1mm wire can go thru and a quick twist with my old sidchrome pliers get a nice tight twist.
Edited 2025-11-19 19:03 by Bryan1
 
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