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Forum Index : Electronics : 24v Nano/Madinverter

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Warpspeed
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Joined: 09/08/2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 2755
Posted: 07:54am 21 Sep 2019
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Well done Mark                
Edited 2019-09-21 18:07 by Warpspeed
Cheers, Tony.
 
renewableMark

Guru

Joined: 09/12/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 1331
Posted: 08:10am 21 Sep 2019
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Forgot to say, it has a 9 watt idle, pretty happy with that.

But got a fright at the ammeter when I put on a 2400 watt blowheater  
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
Warpspeed
Guru

Joined: 09/08/2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 2755
Posted: 08:17am 21 Sep 2019
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Sounds like the magnetics are working pretty well.

Don't be too surprised when your nasty microwave chops up your nice clean sine wave pretty badly.
Cheers, Tony.
 
renewableMark

Guru

Joined: 09/12/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 1331
Posted: 08:54am 21 Sep 2019
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That big iron choke on the little torroid tames the hell out of it, no hum at all.

Makes me think two of those in series on a normal size machine would be great.

Microwaves are horrible on inverters, don't think I'll even look at the wave, probably better off not to.
Edited 2019-09-21 18:55 by renewableMark
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
Warpspeed
Guru

Joined: 09/08/2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 2755
Posted: 09:14am 21 Sep 2019
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That choke has a LOT of inductance, especially with the two extra turns it now has.

If you ever make another, increase the air gap from 1mm to 1.5mm or even 2mm.
That will reduce the inductance, but it will still be a lot.

As it is now, its going to be fine up to about 2.5Kw at 24v or 5Kw at 48v, but that is getting rather close to saturation at those current levels.
You can probably afford to trade off a bit of inductance to gain more head room at max current.
Cheers, Tony.
 
renewableMark

Guru

Joined: 09/12/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 1331
Posted: 11:10pm 22 Sep 2019
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Poida, what is the 0W in the bottom right?
If it is meant to be watts, mine isn't working.

Also what is the offset settings for?


ALSO, found something great, it can be left with the DC power on, but the inverter not actually running, (so caps still kept charged) and it only uses 0.05A.

Then the single momentary button brings it to life, then it uses 0.34A @idle with the 240v available.

So basically it can be in "sleep mode" with caps staying charged and it uses only 1.25 watts.

So I won't need to teach the wife a start up procedure, just leave the dc on and caps charged and she can just hit the round ON/OFF button.
Even left on overnight that won't draw bugger all.
Edited 2019-09-23 09:28 by renewableMark
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
poida

Guru

Joined: 02/02/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 548
Posted: 12:58am 23 Sep 2019
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0W in bottom right corner is the product of DC volts and DC current.
IF there are available values for both, and they are sensible values,
then we get a DC current value visible and a DC power value.

Offset settings are needed due to many and varied methods we can use to
feed the nanoverter it's inputs.
The analog to digital conversion requires a voltage from 0 to 5V.

I like to use LEM closed circuit control Hall effect current sensors
for DC current. These are totally isolated, need 5V supply and give output
of 0V for -50A, 2.5V for 0A and 5V for 50A
I expect the zero amp sensor output to be close to 2.5V but never exactly
what the nano sees as 2.5V
So I need to obtain zero offsets for both current sensor inputs.

I have offsets for both NTC thermistors, so I can have them both showing the same
temperature when they are exposed to the same temperature.
I could not leave it be when I saw 5 degC difference between two thermistors which
were seeing the same temperatures.

The latest code for nano2 has a display of output AC amps and AC VA
I label it as "W" but again, it's the product of AC volts and current.
It is ignorant of power factor.

latest code (AC power display):


nano2_5_ac_current_sensor_dc_signal.ino.zip
wronger than a phone book full of wrong phone numbers
 
renewableMark

Guru

Joined: 09/12/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 1331
Posted: 07:03am 30 Sep 2019
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Well just got back from 5 days away.
The small Mad power board with the nano control card worked perfectly all trip.
Very simple for 24v, no parts needed to be changed at all (12fet board), and it works flawlessly.

I think JohnMC used a big power board on 24v, but some things needed to be changed from memory.

Anyway, this runs 2kw on 24v just fine, so for caravans it's more than big enough.
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
poida

Guru

Joined: 02/02/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 548
Posted: 11:49pm 01 Oct 2019
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Good news Mark.
wronger than a phone book full of wrong phone numbers
 
renewableMark

Guru

Joined: 09/12/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 1331
Posted: 11:07am 04 Oct 2019
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It's so nice to have started a build and have it finished and running with no problems and it's attracted less than 1500 hits.

Much happier with this build compared to last one, just went like clockwork and it operated like clockwork.

I really didn't have the skills to start a build like this back when I did the first one.

I do now, and can do it relatively easy now, but it was a steep learning curve.

That is something I would warn newbies of, if you don't have a really good handle on electronics and have enough equipment, then don't try it.
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
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